pH and Suitability of Encapsulated BHA (Timed-Release) in Liquid Facial Soap and Toner
Question
I am formulating a liquid facial soap using the following ingredients and percentages:
- Lanry Glucoside = 5.0%
- Coci Belaine = 5.0%
- Baby Foam = 5.0%
- Creamy Foamer = 5.0%
- Glycerin (Vegetable) = 10.0%
- Propylene Glycol = 10.0%
(BHA,Timed-Release)= 3.3%- Preservative = 1.0%
- Water = Remaining percentage
Is this formula suitable, or do I need to add or remove any ingredients? Also, is this specific (BHA,Timed-Release) (Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) suitable for use in a toner, and if so, what pH adjustments are needed for both the liquid facial soap and the toner formulations?
Answer
pH of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid and Formulation Advice
Regarding your questions about Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA, Timed-Release):
pH of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid
The description for Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) indicates that during its action period, its pH is around 5.0. This is closer to the skin's natural pH, contributing to its gentler nature compared to standard salicylic acid.
Using in Liquid Facial Soap
- pH Adjustment: Yes, you will likely need to adjust the pH when incorporating Encapsulated Salicylic Acid into a liquid facial soap base. Soap bases are typically alkaline. To ensure the BHA is effective and gentle on the skin, the final product's pH should ideally be adjusted to a slightly acidic range, around pH 5.0, which is the optimal range for this specific encapsulated form.
- Substances for pH Adjustment: Common cosmetic acids used to lower pH include Citric Acid or Lactic Acid.
- Formula Compatibility: You asked about the compatibility of your proposed formula ingredients. As confirmed by the staff reply, Encapsulated Salicylic Acid is NOT compatible with WaterLock™. These two ingredients should not be used together in the same formula. The revised formula you provided without WaterLock™ appears compatible in terms of the remaining ingredients with the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, but you must still check and adjust the final pH.
Using in Toner
- Suitability: The Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) is specifically designed for products that are washed off, such as cleansers. It is not suitable for leave-on products like toners. For a toner, you would need to use a different type of Salicylic Acid, such as an Encapsulated Salicylic Acid designed for leave-on products or a water-soluble powder form.
- pH Adjustment for Toner: If you were using an appropriate leave-on type of BHA in a toner, pH adjustment would be necessary for efficacy and skin tolerance. The target pH range would depend on the specific type of BHA, but for the encapsulated type effective around pH 5.0, you would aim for that range. For standard salicylic acid in a leave-on product, a lower pH (typically 3.0-4.0) is often targeted for exfoliation, but this can cause irritation, which is why the encapsulated version is designed to be gentler at a higher pH.
- Substances for pH Adjustment: Similar to soap, Citric Acid or Lactic Acid are commonly used to adjust the pH of toners.
In summary, for your liquid facial soap, adjust the pH to around 5.0 using an acid like Citric Acid or Lactic Acid, and do not include WaterLock™ in the formula. For a toner, the Wash-Off type BHA is not suitable; you would need a Leave-On type and adjust the pH accordingly.