pH and Texture Issues in Sym-White™ Formulation

ถามโดย: s.sil043247696 เมื่อ: December 06, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am formulating a cream/serum containing Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) 0.5%. Before adding Sym-White™, I attempted to adjust the pH to 4-5 using litmus paper, but the resulting pH was around 3-4. I added Sym-White™ as the final ingredient.

My questions are:

  1. After adding Sym-White™, do I need to adjust the pH to 5.5-7?
  2. What are the potential effects of using a cream with a pH of 3-4 on facial skin?
  3. The staff recommended using LipidSoft™ CC 5% or LipidSoft™ Lite 5% to improve slipperiness, but I used LipidSoft™ instead, thinking they were interchangeable. The resulting cream was not significantly more slippery. Will using LipidSoft™ CC provide a noticeable difference in slipperiness compared to LipidSoft™?
  4. The resulting cream has a sticky, glue-like texture and feels tight on the skin. Which ingredients are causing this stickiness and tightness? (Based on the staff's response, potential culprits include Pro Polymer™ at 1%, Repair Activator™, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera), Panthenol, Rhamnose, and Rice Vitamin).
  5. What ingredients are beneficial for improving skin elasticity?
  6. What are the consequences of using Sym-White™ at a concentration exceeding 0.5%?

คำตอบ

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your formula and observations. Let's address your questions:

  1. pH adjustment after adding Sym-White™: The staff previously recommended adjusting the pH to 4-5 for optimal stability of Sym-White™. While a pH of 3-4 might still be within a generally acceptable range for skin, adjusting it closer to 4-5 would be better for the long-term stability and efficacy of Sym-White™. Adjusting to 5.5-7 is not necessary for Sym-White™ and might not be ideal for its stability compared to 4-5.
  2. Effects of pH 3-4 on skin: A pH between 3.5 and 6.5 is generally considered suitable for skin. While pH 3-4 is slightly on the lower side, it might be acceptable for some individuals. However, for sensitive skin, a pH consistently below 4 could potentially cause mild irritation or dryness.
  3. LipidSoft™ vs LipidSoft™ CC for slipperiness: Based on the staff's previous response, LipidSoft™ CC and LipidSoft™ Lite offer a skin feel similar to LipidSoft™, perhaps slightly lighter for CC. The primary benefit of LipidSoft™ CC is its ability to help disperse pigments in formulations like BB/CC creams. For improving the slip and reducing stickiness in a gel serum like yours, the difference between LipidSoft™ and LipidSoft™ CC might not be very significant. The staff suggested these emollients to improve feel compared to purely water-soluble ingredients.
  4. Ingredients causing stickiness and tightness: The sticky, glue-like texture and the feeling of tightness are likely caused by the high total concentration of water-soluble polymers and humectants in your formula. Ingredients like Pro Polymer™ (at 1%), Repair Activator™, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Panthenol, N-Acetyl-D glucosamine, Rhamnose, and Rice Vitamin, when used at high percentages in combination, can create a film on the skin as the water evaporates, leading to stickiness and a tightening sensation. Pro Polymer™ at 1% is a significant contributor to the gel structure and the film-forming effect.
  5. Ingredients for skin elasticity: Your current formula already contains Matrixyl™ 3000 and Repair Activator™, which are good for anti-aging and can help improve skin firmness and elasticity over time. Given your oily skin type, adding heavy oils is not recommended. To further address elasticity without adding stickiness, you could consider ingredients that support collagen production or provide a temporary tightening effect. However, many ingredients that provide a strong temporary tightening effect (like some film-forming polymers) might exacerbate the feeling of dryness or tightness you are already experiencing. Focusing on long-term elasticity with peptides and supporting skin barrier health (which ingredients like Niacinamide and Ceramides help with) is a good approach. The staff previously mentioned Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™) for skin barrier support, which can indirectly help with elasticity, although they noted it's more cost-effective for dry/sensitive skin.
  6. Effects of Sym-White™ > 0.5%: Using Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) at concentrations significantly higher than the recommended maximum (typically 0.5% to 1%) increases the risk of skin irritation, redness, burning, or increased sensitivity, especially with prolonged use. It is generally advised to stick to the recommended usage rates to ensure safety and minimize potential adverse reactions.

To reduce the stickiness and tightness, you might consider slightly reducing the concentration of some of the water-soluble humectants/actives or the gel maker (Pro Polymer™). The staff's previous suggestions of incorporating a light emollient like LipidSoft™ Lite or CC (which you already have a version of) and potentially a penetration enhancer like PE-1 Aqua (if you remove oil-soluble ingredients) were aimed at improving the texture and absorption.

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Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
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LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)
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Rhamnose (rhamnose sugar)
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