Physical Sunscreen Formulation: White Cast, SPF, and Silicone-Free Serum Texture

Asked by: maigonix On: June 22, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions regarding physical sunscreen formulation:

1. If I use the new type of Titanium Dioxide (available from 4/7/2016) at 15%, will there still be a white cast?
2. If I use a ratio of `Zinc Oxide` 20% and `Titanium Dioxide` 5%, can I still claim SPF 50 PA+++?

Answer

Subject: Physical Sunscreen Formulation

Based on the conversation regarding physical sunscreen formulation:

  • SPF 50 PA+++ Percentage: To achieve SPF 50 PA+++, the staff suggested using approximately 15% of the new type of Titanium Dioxide (available from 4/7/2016) and 15% Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse.
  • Reducing White Cast: High concentrations of Titanium Dioxide can cause white cast. The new type of Titanium Dioxide is designed to significantly reduce this effect compared to the 200nm type. The staff's recommended formula also adjusts the ratio, using less Titanium Dioxide and more Zinc Oxide, which helps minimize white cast.
  • Light Serum Formulation without Silicone:
    • The user's proposed formula using Light Cream Maker is not suitable for high sunscreen percentages as Light Cream Maker cannot emulsify a large amount of oil.
    • The staff recommended an alternative formula for a light texture:
      • Titanium Dioxide (new type): 5%
      • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse: 20%
      • LipidSoft Lite: 20%
      • LipidSoft Dry: 5%
      • Milk Lotion Maker: 3-5%
      • Preservative: 1%
      • Water: Remaining percentage
  • Availability of New Ingredients:
    • Carrot Seed Oil is available via beScents.com.
    • Ingredients like Melanin (Liposhield HEV) and Styrene/acrylates copolymer (Sunsphere) are currently under testing by the company. Physical sunscreens like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide already offer some protection against the wavelengths Melanin targets.
  • Claiming SPF 50 PA+++: To definitively claim SPF 50 PA+++ with a specific ratio like Zinc Oxide 20% and Titanium Dioxide 5%, the formulation must be sent for official SPF testing. An estimation can be made using tools like the BASF Sunscreen Simulator.