Pigment Settling and Thin Texture in Lip Gloss
Question
How to prevent pigment and mica settling, improve color payoff, and increase viscosity to prevent bleeding in a lip gloss formulation using PIDDC, LipidSoft, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, various oils, and D&C lake/mica pigments?
Answer
Hello! I understand the issues you are facing. Based on the ingredients you are using, both D&C lake 7 and Mica are pigments and pearl powders that tend to settle easily in an oil base if there isn't a good suspending agent. Additionally, a thin oil texture makes it easier for pigments to settle and can cause the color to bleed outside the lip line.
The main problems stem from:
- Pigment Dispersion and Suspension: The pigments and mica are not staying suspended well in the oil base, leading to settling.
- Oil Phase Viscosity: The oil texture is still too thin, which contributes to pigment settling and can cause the product to bleed or run.
To solve these issues, you need to add ingredients that act as a Suspending Agent and a Thickener for the oil phase.
Based on the information I found, one ingredient that is particularly suitable and addresses these needs is Hectorite Gel™ (Isononyl Isononanoate Base).
Hectorite Gel™ has key properties that can help:
- Helps suspend pigments and mica: It can help bind pigments, pearl powders, and other powders, preventing them from settling and ensuring the color is evenly distributed throughout the product.
- Increases viscosity and gels oils: It helps to thicken the oil phase into a gel-like consistency. This gel structure helps to keep solid particles suspended and improves the product's body, reducing issues like bleeding or running.
How to Use Hectorite Gel™:
Typically, Hectorite Gel™ is added to the oil phase of the formula and mixed thoroughly to create the gel structure in the oil before combining with other ingredients.
Adding Hectorite Gel™ to your formula should help resolve the pigment settling issue, improve color dispersion, and increase the viscosity of your lip gloss, resulting in a better-bodied product that doesn't feel too thin or bleed easily.