Proposed Pomade Formula

Here is a proposed starting point for your pomade formulation, designed to achieve the properties you described using the ingredients you provided.

Based on your desired texture (clear, firm but not hard, sticky, high hold, re-combable, sweat-resistant, matte finish, easy to wash off) and the ingredients you listed, here is a suggested starting formula:

• Water: 54.5%
• Paste Maker (Ceteareth-25): 20%
• PVP K-90: 8%
• Beeswax: 3%
• Glycerin: 4%
• Propylene Glycol: 4%
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 2%
• Polysorbate 20: 1%
• Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate): 1%
• Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 1%
• Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
• Fragrance: 0.5%

Total: 100%

Ingredient Roles:

• Paste Maker (Ceteareth-25): This is your primary emulsifier and thickener, crucial for building the paste texture and providing hold.
• PVP K-90: A strong film-forming polymer that provides high hold, style retention, and allows for re-combing without flaking.
• Beeswax: Contributes to hold, firmness, and helps provide a matte finish. Note that beeswax is naturally opaque, so achieving a perfectly clear formula with beeswax is challenging; the final product will likely be translucent to opaque.
• Glycerin & Propylene Glycol: These are humectants that help keep the pomade from drying out and contribute to a smooth texture.
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil & Polysorbate 20: These are solubilizers and co-emulsifiers that help blend the oil/wax phase with the water phase and are key to making the pomade easy to wash off with water.
• Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate): A mild surfactant that further aids in washability and can provide a smoother feel.
• Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): A conditioning agent for the hair.
• Phenoxyethanol SA: A broad-spectrum preservative to keep your product stable and safe.
• Fragrance: Adds scent to the product.

Mixing Instructions:

Based on your previous experience with Paste Maker clumping, proper heating and mixing are essential.

1. Water Phase: Combine Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, and Paste Maker in a heat-resistant container. Heat this phase to approximately 75-80°C while stirring or mixing continuously. Ensure the Paste Maker is fully dissolved and the mixture is uniform. Heating the water phase sufficiently before adding Paste Maker, and adding it gradually while mixing, can help prevent clumping as the staff suggested.
2. Oil/Wax Phase: In a separate heat-resistant container, combine Beeswax, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polysorbate 20, and Coco Wash. Heat this phase to approximately 75-80°C until the beeswax is completely melted and all ingredients are combined.
3. Emulsification: Slowly add the heated Oil/Wax Phase to the heated Water Phase while mixing vigorously. Using a high-shear mixer (like a stick blender) at this stage is highly recommended to create a stable emulsion and prevent the formula from turning white or separating, especially when rubbed. Continue mixing as the mixture cools and starts to thicken.
4. Cooling Phase: Once the temperature drops below 40°C, add the heat-sensitive ingredients: PVP K-90, Vitamin B5, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Fragrance.
5. Final Mixing: Continue mixing until all ingredients are fully incorporated and the pomade reaches its desired consistency.

The issue of the formula turning white when rubbed is often due to the emulsion not being stable enough. Ensuring both phases are heated properly and mixed thoroughly during the emulsification step is crucial. The matte finish is primarily contributed by the Beeswax and PVP K-90.

This formula is a starting point. You may need to adjust the percentages slightly based on your testing to fine-tune the hold, texture, and finish to exactly match your preferences.