Pomade Formulation: Clear Gel Turns Cloudy White and Dry When Rubbed

Question

Based on the provided Pomade formula and instructions, I made the clear gel version using PVP-K90 instead of Easy Hair Styler. The gel is initially clear, but when I rub it on my hands, it turns into a cloudy white, dry film. Can you explain why this happens?

Formula:

Paste Maker™ 25%
coco-wash™ 13%
glycerin 5%
Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.) or PVP-K90 10% (Using PVP-K90 for clear version)
Phenoxyethanol SA 1%
Water 46%

Instructions:

Heat Paste Maker™, coco-wash™ and glycerin to 80-90°C and mix (Oil Phase).
Heat Water to 80-90°C and mix with the Oil Phase. Emulsify until uniform.
Let cool to below 40°C.
Add Easy Hair Styler (or PVP-K90) and Phenoxyethanol SA. Mix until uniform.
For a clear formula, replace Easy Hair Styler with PVP-K90 and mix it into the water phase.

Observation: The resulting clear gel turns cloudy white and dry when rubbed on hands.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Pomade Formulation Issue - Clear Gel Turning Cloudy White and Dry

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your experience with the pomade formula. You mentioned that you achieved a clear gel, but when rubbed on your hands, it turns into a cloudy white, dry film.

This phenomenon is likely related to how the ingredients behave as the water evaporates when the product is applied and rubbed onto the skin.

Dry Film: The "dry film" is expected and is primarily due to the hair fixative ingredient (Easy Hair Styler or PVP-K90 if you used the modified formula). These polymers are designed to form a film on the hair (or skin) to provide hold.
Cloudy White Appearance: The cloudiness that appears upon rubbing is likely caused by other ingredients in the formula, such as the thickeners/emulsifiers (like Paste Maker™) or even the film-forming polymer itself, becoming less soluble or forming aggregates as the water evaporates and the concentration of these ingredients increases on the skin surface. When these components precipitate or crystallize, they scatter light and appear cloudy or white. Rubbing accelerates this process by spreading the product thinly and increasing the rate of water evaporation.

While the staff mentioned that the original formula is expected to be white and that mixing issues can cause cloudiness due to glycerin foaming, your observation starts with a clear gel. The cloudiness you see upon rubbing is a different effect, related to the drying process on the skin.

In summary, the rubbing action causes the water to evaporate quickly, concentrating the ingredients. The film-forming polymer creates the dry film, and other ingredients may precipitate or aggregate as they become less soluble in the reduced amount of water, resulting in the cloudy white appearance.

We hope this explanation helps clarify the behavior you observed.