Pomade Formulation Questions: Mixing, Color, Fragrance, Texture, Viscosity, and Hold

Question

Regarding the following Pomade formulation, please advise on the following:

Formula:

WATER (AQUA): 65.6%
Ceteareth-25: 15%
glycerin: 3%
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate: 3.5%
PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: 2%
PVP K90: 7%
Propylene Glycol: 2%
SIMETHICONE: 0.5%
DMDM HYDANTOIN: 0.4%
Fragrance (PARFUM): 0.6%
PEG-8 Beeswax: 0.2%
Polysorbate 20: 0.2%

Questions:

What is the correct mixing order (Phase A, Phase B)?
What type of color should be used if color is desired?
What type of fragrance should be used?
How can the formula be adjusted (increase/decrease which ingredients) to make the Pomade texture stickier and have a higher hold?
The current formula results in a glossy texture. How can it be adjusted (cut or add which ingredients) to achieve a matte texture?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Pomade Formulation Questions

Regarding your questions about the pomade formulation:

Mixing Order (Phase A, B):
- Phase A (Water Phase): Combine WATER (AQUA), Glycerin, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PVP K90, Propylene Glycol, DMDM Hydantoin, Polysorbate 20. Heat this phase.
- Phase B (Oil/Wax Phase): Combine Ceteareth-25, SIMETHICONE, PEG-8 Beeswax. Heat this phase separately until melted and uniform.
- Procedure: Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while mixing thoroughly. Continue mixing during the cooling phase. Add Fragrance and Color (if liquid/dispersed in water) during the cooling phase below a certain temperature (e.g., below 40-50°C) to avoid degradation.
Type of Color:
- For a water-based pomade, water-soluble colors are generally recommended for easy dispersion and stability.
Type of Fragrance:
- Water-soluble or water-dispersible fragrances are suitable. Oil-based fragrances can be used but require proper solubilization (Polysorbate 20 in your formula helps with this).
Increase Viscosity and Hold:
- Viscosity: Increase the percentage of Ceteareth-25. You could also consider adding other water-soluble thickeners.
- Hold: Increase the percentage of PVP K90. This is the primary styling polymer providing hold.
Change from Glossy to Matte:
- To achieve a matte finish, you need to reduce the glossy components and add matte agents.
- Reduce Gloss: Consider slightly reducing ingredients that contribute to shine, such as Glycerin, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, SIMETHICONE, PEG-8 Beeswax, and Polysorbate 20. However, be cautious as these ingredients also contribute to texture, emulsification, and feel.
- Add Matte Agents: Incorporate matte powders like Kaolin Clay, Bentonite Clay, Silica, or starches (e.g., Tapioca Starch, Corn Starch). These absorb oil and reduce shine. You would need to experiment with the percentage, typically starting low (e.g., 1-5%). These powders often need to be dispersed properly, sometimes in a small amount of the water or oil phase before being added to the main batch.