Pomade Formulation: Stability and Emulsification

Subject: Review of Pomade Formulas

Regarding your pomade formulas:

Formula 1 (Oil/Butter Based):
This formula, consisting primarily of butters and oils (Shea Butter, Mango Butter, Jojoba Butter, Castor Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Grape Seed Oil), is likely to be all-natural and vegan as intended. However, as the staff mentioned, blends of different oils and butters can separate over time, especially with temperature changes.

• Adding Oil Blender (Product ID 1004) at 2-3% can help improve stability and prevent separation, but it would mean the formula is no longer considered "all-natural."
• For an all-natural alternative to improve stability, you could try a natural emulsifier like Soy Lecithin (Product ID 256). However, the staff noted that natural emulsifiers might not provide the same level of stability as synthetic options.
• Another approach to improve stability in an all-natural, oil-based formula without emulsifiers is to adjust the ratio of solid/semi-solid ingredients (butters, natural waxes if vegan options are used) to liquid oils to create a firmer matrix that is less prone to separation.

Formula 2 (Water and Oil Based):
This formula contains both water (Distilled Water) and oils/butters, which are immiscible. To create a stable pomade with these ingredients, you absolutely need an emulsifier or cream maker to bind the water and oil phases together.

• As the staff explained, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Product ID 738) is an emulsifier, but it is primarily effective for formulas with a very low oil content, acting more as a solubilizer for fragrances or small amounts of oil in a water base. It is not sufficient to emulsify a significant oil/butter phase into water for a pomade.
• You would need to add a suitable Cream Maker or Emulsifier designed for creating oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, depending on the desired texture and feel.
• Regarding safety, if formulated correctly with appropriate ingredients and preservation (for the water phase), the formula should be safe for hair. The key is achieving a stable emulsion.

General Questions:

• Why do some wax/oil/petrolatum formulas mix well? As the staff indicated, waxes like Beeswax (Product ID 206), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Product ID 1482), and Microcrystalline Wax (Product ID 616) act as structuring agents that help solidify and stabilize oil blends, preventing immediate separation at room temperature. However, they can still separate if subjected to repeated temperature fluctuations (freeze-thaw cycles). The example formula you provided contains multiple waxes (Cera Alba/Beeswax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Microcrystalline Wax) along with oils and butters, which contribute to its stable, solid or semi-solid structure.
• Can cream makers be used in water-based pomades? Yes, cream makers can be used in water-based pomade formulas to create an emulsion. However, you need to select a cream maker that provides the desired texture and hold characteristic of a pomade, which is different from a typical skin cream.

In summary, for Formula 1, consider adding a natural emulsifier like Soy Lecithin or adjusting ingredient ratios if you want to keep it all-natural, or use Oil Blender for better stability if "all-natural" is not a strict requirement. For Formula 2, adding a suitable cream maker or emulsifier is essential for stability. The stability of wax-based formulas depends on the wax content and storage conditions. Cream makers can be used in water-based pomades, but the choice affects the final texture.

All ingredients mentioned are generally considered safe for hair when used in appropriate concentrations in a well-formulated product.

Relevant Product IDs: 117, 771, 121, 120, 1004, 738, 256, 206, 1482, 616, 87