Powder Cleanser Formulation Causing Dryness and Irritation

Asked by: aon.ohn On: June 01, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Powder Cleanser Formulation Causing Dryness and Irritation

I have developed a powder cleanser with the following formulation:

  • Amino Powder Cleanser 85%
  • Vitamin B5 1%
  • Fragrance 0.5%
  • Corn Starch (remainder)

This product has been tested by multiple people with good results. However, one customer experienced dryness, a rash, and acne breakouts after using it for 3 days. They previously used a gentle gel cleanser from a clinic.

I am confused because I also have a cream product containing Vitamin B5 and Vitamin B3 which did not cause any issues for this customer. Why would the powder cleanser cause such a reaction while the cream with similar vitamins did not?

Answer

Regarding the Powder Cleanser Formulation Issue

Hello,

Thank you for providing the details about the customer's experience with your powder cleanser formulation. It's understandable that you're confused, especially since other testers had positive results and a cream product with similar vitamins didn't cause issues.

Based on the information provided and the staff's feedback, here are the most likely reasons for the customer's reaction:

  • High Concentration of Surfactant (Amino Powder Cleanser): The formulation uses Amino Powder Cleanser (Product ID: 482) at a very high concentration (85%). While this ingredient is designed for cleansing, using it at such a high percentage in a daily facial cleanser can be too harsh for some skin types, especially sensitive skin. High surfactant levels can strip the skin's natural moisture barrier, leading to dryness, irritation (like the rash reported), and potentially triggering acne breakouts as the skin's defense mechanism is compromised. The initial positive feeling might be from effective cleansing, but prolonged use causes damage. This aligns with the staff's recommendation to significantly reduce the concentration of this ingredient.
  • Fragrance Sensitivity: Fragrances, even at low concentrations (0.5% in your formula), are common skin irritants and allergens. While some people tolerate them well, others can develop reactions, including dryness, redness, itching, or breakouts. The staff's question about patch-testing the fragrance is relevant here.
  • Skin Barrier Condition and Transition: The customer previously used a gentle gel cleanser from a clinic. Switching directly to a high-surfactant powder cleanser might have been too abrupt for their skin, especially if their skin barrier was already delicate or accustomed to very mild products.

The reason the cream product with Vitamin B5 (Product ID: 111) and Vitamin B3 (Product ID: 74) did not cause issues is likely because the overall formulation is very different. Creams contain emollients and humectants that provide moisture and support the skin barrier, and they typically do not contain such high levels of surfactants as a cleanser. Therefore, the issue is not with the vitamins themselves, but rather with the cleansing base and its concentration in the powder formula.

You can explain to the customer that while the product worked well for many, their skin might be particularly sensitive to the high cleansing power of this specific formulation. Suggesting they try a product with a lower surfactant concentration or a different type of cleanser might be helpful. The staff's suggested revised formula with Amino Powder Cleanser at 20-30% is a good starting point for a milder version.

Relevant Product IDs: 482, 111, 74