Powder Cleanser Formulation: Ingredient Substitution and Active Effectiveness

Question

I am interested in making a Powder Cleanser and have some questions regarding ingredient substitutions and the effectiveness of active ingredients in this type of product. Regarding the 20% corn starch in the formulation: Can herbal powders or dry extracts be used to replace it? Can food-grade corn starch (used for cooking) be used? Can other types of flour, such as finely ground oat or gram flour, be used instead? When substituting, should I consider the texture of the powder, ensuring it is not too coarse? If I want to add liquid extracts, such as Essential Oil or Arbutin, should I mix them in and then bake/dry the mixture before use? I have a commercial Powder Cleanser from abroad with the following ingredients: Sodium Bicarbonate, Citric Acid, sodium cocoyl isethionate, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, polyethylene, Arbutin, Niacinamide, methylsilanol mannuronate, argania spinosa sprout cell extract, hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Lecithin. What is the purpose of the ingredients listed after polyethylene (Arbutin, Niacinamide, extracts, etc.) in a wash-off product like a cleanser? Do these active ingredients provide any significant benefit when the product is only in contact with the skin for a short time (10-20 seconds)?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

I understand you are interested in making your own Powder Cleanser. Based on your questions and the staff's answers, here is a summary:

Using herbal powders, dry extracts, or other flours instead of corn starch: Yes, you can do this. However, you should choose ingredients with a fine, smooth texture that won't irritate the skin. Food-grade corn starch can also be used.
Adding liquid extracts (e.g., essential oils, Arbutin): It is not necessary to mix and dry them. Adding these extracts to a wash-off product like a cleanser, which is in contact with the skin for a short time (10-20 seconds), will not provide significant skin benefits.
Ingredients in the commercial Powder Cleanser you use: Many ingredients listed towards the end (such as Arbutin, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, various extracts) are often included in very small amounts (around 0.01%) for marketing claims. These beneficial ingredients require time to be absorbed and work on the skin, which a cleanser does not provide.

I hope this information is helpful for making your Powder Cleanser.