Preservative and Flavor in Waterless Lip Balm

Asked by: panichadol On: November 06, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a lip balm formula that does not contain any water.

  1. Is it necessary to add a preservative like NaturePreserve™ Ultra in a waterless formula?
  2. I want to add Lemon Flavor/Fragrance. How can I incorporate this water-soluble ingredient into my oil-based formula?

Answer

Incorporating Preservative and Fragrance in Oil-Based Lip Balm

Your lip balm formula is oil-based and does not contain water. In such formulations, the growth of microorganisms is generally not possible, so a preservative is typically not required for product safety.

Preservative

  • You mentioned using NaturePreserve™ Ultra. This preservative is water-soluble and works best in formulas with a pH between 3 and 6. Since your lip balm is oil-based and waterless, NaturePreserve™ Ultra is not suitable for this application.
  • If you still wish to add a preservative for extra confidence, especially to guard against potential contamination from external moisture, it is recommended to use Mild Preserved Eco™. This ingredient is not classified as a traditional preservative but helps prevent microbial growth and can be dispersed in oil-based formulas like lip balm by blending. It can be added in the final step of your formulation.

Fragrance (Lemon Flavor/Fragrance)

  • You are using a Lemon Flavor/Fragrance. As this type of ingredient is often water-soluble, it will not easily mix into an oil-based formula on its own.
  • To properly incorporate the Lemon Flavor/Fragrance and ensure it is fully dissolved and evenly distributed, you need to use a solubilizer. The recommended options are:
    • Oil Blender™: Add 1-2% of Oil Blender™ to your formula. This is an oil-in-oil emulsifier that helps blend various oils and can incorporate small amounts of water-soluble ingredients into oil bases. It should be mixed into the oil phase, typically requiring heat around 70°C for easier incorporation.
    • Water Balm™: Add 3-4% of Water Balm™ to your formula. This ingredient is designed to help bind water or water-soluble ingredients into oil/wax bases, suitable for balms. It should also be mixed into the oil phase, melting around 70°C. Using Water Balm™ can also help create a smoother and softer texture in your lip balm.

In summary, for your waterless lip balm: skip the preservative unless you use Mild Preserved Eco™, and use either Oil Blender™ or Water Balm™ to properly incorporate the Lemon Flavor/Fragrance.