Preservative System & Cream Thickening Alternatives
Question
Hello, I have two questions. First, if a formula contains approximately ten types of natural extracts and I want to use 1,2-Hexanediol and Ethylhexylglycerin as the preservative system, avoiding the benzene ring group preservatives like Benzyl Alcohol and Phenoxyethanol, will this combination be effective? Second, when making a cream mask, can I achieve the desired texture without using Sodium Polyacrylate or Sodium Acrylates Copolymer? If so, what alternative ingredients can be used for thickening if I also want to avoid Silicone and Talc? Thank you very much.
Answer
Cosmetic Formulation Questions
Here are the answers to your formulation questions:
1. Preservative Combination: 1,2-Hexanediol and Ethylhexylglycerin
Yes, 1,2-Hexanediol and Ethylhexylglycerin can be used together in a cosmetic formula.
- Ethylhexylglycerin is a gentle preservative that also functions as a humectant. However, it is generally not recommended for use as a single preservative and should be combined with other preservatives for broad-spectrum protection.
- 1,2-Hexanediol is primarily a solvent and humectant, but it also acts as a preservative booster and has some intrinsic antimicrobial properties. It can enhance the effectiveness of other preservatives, potentially allowing for lower concentrations of those preservatives.
Combining Ethylhexylglycerin and 1,2-Hexanediol can provide a preservative system that avoids benzene ring structures like Benzyl Alcohol and Phenoxyethanol.
However, when formulating with a high number of natural extracts (around ten types), the microbial load and potential for growth can be significant. While this combination contributes to preservation, it is crucial to perform a challenge test on your specific formula to ensure that this system provides adequate and broad-spectrum protection against bacteria, yeast, and mold throughout the product's shelf life. Relying solely on this combination without testing may not be sufficient for robust preservation in such a complex matrix.
2. Thickening for a Cream Mask without Specific Ingredients
Yes, it is possible to create a cream mask texture without using Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Silicone, or Talc.
Creating a cream texture typically involves using emulsifiers to combine oil and water phases and thickeners to build viscosity and body. Since you want to avoid certain synthetic polymers, Silicone, and Talc, you can consider other types of ingredients:
- Emulsifiers with Thickening Properties: Ingredients like Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) are natural-derived, PEG-free emulsifiers that also provide built-in thickening, helping to form the cream structure and contribute to viscosity simultaneously.
- Fatty Alcohols: Ingredients such as Cetearyl Alcohol (a blend of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol) are solid fatty alcohols commonly used in the oil phase of emulsions. They help to stabilize the emulsion and significantly increase the viscosity and richness of the cream texture.
- Natural Gums: Xanthan Gum is a natural gum that acts as a thickener for the water phase. It can be used to increase the viscosity of the aqueous part of your formula, contributing to the overall thickness and stability of the cream mask.
By combining a suitable emulsifier (which may also offer thickening) with fatty alcohols and/or natural gums, you can achieve a stable and viscous cream mask texture while avoiding the ingredients you specified. The exact combination and concentration will depend on the desired final consistency.
Related Products Mentioned
Light Cream Maker™
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Ethylhexylglycerin