Preservatives Needed for Oil-in-Water Cream Formulation

Asked by: my_keedfai On: June 10, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

For an oil-in-water cream formulation, are the following ingredients necessary, and what are their specific functions?

  • Disodium EDTA
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Vitamin E T50 (Tocopherol type)
  • Is oral Vitamin E (capsule form) suitable for use in this type of cosmetic formulation?

Answer

Preservatives for Oil-in-Water Cream

For a cream formulation containing both water and oil, using appropriate preservatives is essential. You already have Disodium EDTA, which acts as a chelating agent. It helps bind metal ions in water, preventing them from interfering with other ingredients and improving formula stability.

Regarding Phenoxyethanol, it is necessary because your formula contains water. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that helps prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi, which are the main causes of spoilage in water-based formulas.

For Vitamin E T50 or Vitamin E of the Tocopherol type (such as dl-alpha tocopherol), its role is as an antioxidant. It helps prevent natural oils in the formula from becoming rancid due to oxidation. If your formula contains natural oils, you should include this type of Vitamin E to extend the shelf life of the oils.

Oral Vitamin E capsules are generally not recommended for use in cosmetic formulations. This is because the type of Vitamin E may not be suitable for preventing oxidation in oil-based formulas (e.g., it might be Tocopheryl Acetate, which is more focused on skin conditioning) and may contain impurities or other ingredients not suitable for external use. You should choose cosmetic-grade Vitamin E specified as Tocopherol or T50 for effective oxidation prevention.

In summary, for an oil-in-water cream formula, you should use Disodium EDTA for stability, Phenoxyethanol for microbial preservation, and if natural oils are present, a Tocopherol type Vitamin E (like T50) to prevent oxidation.

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