Proposed Cream Formulations: Anti-Aging and Brightening + Moisturizing

Asked by: hatunya On: October 15, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on previous advice regarding a complex formula combining many ingredients for anti-aging, brightening, and moisturizing, I have decided to split the formulation into two separate creams. Could you please propose formulations for:

  1. An Anti-Aging Cream targeting wrinkles and firmness.
  2. A Brightening and Moisturizing Cream targeting dark spots, uneven tone, and skin hydration/barrier.

I am looking for guidance on key active ingredients and basic components for each formula, considering the need for appropriate concentrations and stability when separating the functions.

Answer

Proposed Cream Formulations: Anti-Aging and Brightening + Moisturizing

Thank you for consulting about your cream formula. It is understandable that combining many ingredients from various sources can lead to a complex formula with potentially too high or too low concentrations of certain active ingredients, as pointed out by chalermlap. Splitting the formula is indeed an excellent approach to achieve your desired results with appropriate ingredient concentrations without worrying about compatibility issues or product stability.

Based on your goals (reducing wrinkles, brightening skin, and moisturizing) and chalermlap's recommendations, here are proposed formulations split into two main creams:

Formula 1: Anti-Aging Cream

This formula focuses on ingredients that help reduce wrinkles, promote collagen production, and provide a firming effect.

  • Key Active Ingredients (Choose one approach or combine):
    • Option A (Focus on Argireline + DMAE):
      • Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): 10%
      • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 20%
      • (Optional additions: Vitamin B5 (Calcium Pantothenate) 5% or L-Tyrosine 2% for added benefits)
    • Option B (Focus on Repair Activator + Argireline + Matrixyl):
      • Repair Activator™: 10%
      • Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): 10%
      • Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
  • Basic Ingredients:
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
    • Light Cream Maker and/or Pro Polymer: Adjust total amount to approximately 2-4% for desired cream texture (using Pro Polymer can improve texture).
    • Phenoxyethanol: 1% (or calculate based on water amount)
    • Sterile water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%

Formula 2: Brightening & Moisturizing Cream

This formula focuses on ingredients that help even out skin tone, reduce dark spots, and strengthen/moisturize the skin barrier.

  • Key Active Ingredients:
    • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
    • Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™): 3%
    • Vitamin C Ester (Ascorbyl Palmitate): 5%
    • Propylene Glycol (PG): 4% (helps dissolve Vitamin C Ester)
    • Aloe Vera Extract: 3%
    • WaterLock™: 2%
    • Vitamin A Palmitate (Retinyl Palmitate): 1%
    • Oil (e.g., Squalane (Olive), Rose hip oil, Grape seed oil, Apricot oil): 5-10% (Choose your preferred oil. Squalane (Olive) is a good option, or you can try other oils as recommended by chalermlap).
    • Bisabolol: 1%
    • (Optional addition: N-Acetyl Glucosamine 4% for enhanced brightening)
    • (Optional alternative: Sea Kelp Extract 5% can be used instead of Aloe Vera Extract)
  • Basic Ingredients:
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
    • Light Cream Maker and/or Pro Polymer: Adjust total amount to approximately 2-4% for desired cream texture.
    • Phenoxyethanol: 1% (or calculate based on water amount)
    • Sterile water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%

Additional Considerations:

  • Water Percentage: Calculate by subtracting the total percentage of all other ingredients from 100%.
  • Texture: The amount of Light Cream Maker and Pro Polymer can be slightly adjusted to achieve your desired cream consistency.
  • Mixing Method: Generally, water-soluble ingredients (Water Phase) and oil-soluble ingredients (Oil Phase) are mixed separately before combining and emulsifying. Heating may be required depending on the chosen cream maker.
  • Usage: You can use the Anti-Aging formula at night and the Brightening & Moisturizing formula in the morning, or alternate days, or even layer thin applications of both if the texture allows.

Splitting the formula this way allows you to use active ingredients at the higher concentrations recommended by chalermlap, which should lead to better results for wrinkles, brightening, and moisturizing compared to a single formula where each active might be too diluted.

Please let me know if you have any further questions about adjusting the formulas or other ingredients. I'm happy to provide more guidance.