PVP K-90 Dissolution Issue and Lumps in Formulation

Asked by: akakkoii On: May 11, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a product and encountered an issue with the texture. After mixing, the product contains small lumps that look like chalk powder and require rubbing to break apart.

My initial formula included Microcrystalline Wax, Kaolin, and an emulsifier. I used a mixing process at 80°C, 2000 rpm for 20 minutes for a 200g batch.

Upon investigation, I found that the lumping started in the water phase containing Water, Kaolin, and PVP K-90. I suspect the PVP K-90 is not dissolving completely. I observed that it required heating to around 97°C to fully dissolve, which is higher than the recommended maximum temperature of 80°C.

Could this issue be due to the quality of the PVP K-90, or are the temperature guidelines incorrect? (Note: I later found the issue was likely moisture affecting the PVP and resolved it with a new container, but I still want to understand the dissolution behavior and temperature.)

Answer

Subject: Product Texture Not Smooth

Dear Customer,

Thank you for reaching out and for the detailed information regarding the issue with your product texture. We understand you encountered small lumps resembling chalk powder after mixing, which required rubbing to break apart.

You initially suspected Microcrystalline Wax, Kaolin, or the emulsifier quantity, and described your mixing process (80°C, 2000 rpm, 20 minutes for 200g).

Our staff initially advised that the issue was likely related to the mixing process rather than the formula itself, suggesting identifying the ingredient causing the lumps and properly pre-dispersing or dissolving it.

Following this advice, you identified that the lumping started in the water phase containing Water, Kaolin, and PVP K-90. You suspected incomplete dissolution of PVP K-90, noting that it required a higher temperature (around 97°C) than the recommended maximum (80°C) to dissolve completely, leading you to question the product's quality or the temperature guidelines.

Our staff clarified that the "Boiling Point" mentioned in external documentation refers to the temperature at which the substance degrades, and exceeding the recommended processing temperature (80°C) can compromise the quality of PVP.

Ultimately, you discovered that the problem was likely caused by moisture affecting the PVP, and the issue was resolved by using a new container.

We are glad to hear that you were able to resolve the issue. As our staff mentioned, PVP dissolution requires adequate stirring and sufficient time, even at moderate temperatures (e.g., 70°C with magnetic stirring for 15 minutes). If you encounter any issues with the quality of our products, including the dissolution of PVP, please do not hesitate to contact us or send the product back for inspection and claim. We stand behind the quality of all our products.

We hope this summary of the troubleshooting process is helpful.

Sincerely,
Myskinrecipes Team