Question about TH product

Question

ตั้งใจทำเซรั่มให้คุณแม่ อายุ68แล้ว ริ้วรอยตามวัย ตากแดดบ่อยอาทิตย์ละ 3-4วัน แต่ไม่ได้คล้ำเสียหรือเป็นฝ้านะคะ
คาดหวังให้หน้าผ่องใส ไม่คล้ำเสียจากแดด ชะลอการเกิดร่องรอยลึก และจางลง

เซรั่ม
1.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:2u5hr85j]น้ำกลั่น[/url:2u5hr85j] 86%
2.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:2u5hr85j]Disodium EDTA[/url:2u5hr85j] 0.20% (มีอยู่แล้ว)
3.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%A5-thickener/234-pro-polymer-acrylate-crosspolymer.html:2u5hr85j]Pro Polymer[/url:2u5hr85j] [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%A5-thickener/234-pro-polymer-acrylate-crosspolymer.html:2u5hr85j]Gel Maker[/url:2u5hr85j] 0.80% (มีอยู่แล้ว)
4.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/anti-pollution-%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B0/1299-ectoin.html:2u5hr85j]Ectoine[/url:2u5hr85j] 2%
5.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1140-tranexamic-acid-%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%94.html:2u5hr85j]Tranexamic Acid[/url:2u5hr85j] 3% (มีอยู่แล้ว)
6.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/833-3-o-ethyl-ascorbic-acid-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5.html:2u5hr85j]Ethyl Ascorbic acid[/url:2u5hr85j] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/833-3-o-ethyl-ascorbic-acid-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5.html:2u5hr85j]Vitamin C Ethyl Ether[/url:2u5hr85j]) 4%
7.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:2u5hr85j]Mild Preserved Eco™[/url:2u5hr85j] 1% (มีอยู่แล้ว)
8.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/128-squalane-olive-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81.html:2u5hr85j]Squalane (Olive)[/url:2u5hr85j] 2% (มีอยู่แล้ว)
9.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/762-madecassoside-centella-asiatica-extract.html:2u5hr85j]Madecassoside[/url:2u5hr85j]-80 ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/762-madecassoside-centella-asiatica-extract.html:2u5hr85j]Centella Asiatica Extract[/url:2u5hr85j]) 1%

วิธีผสม
1.เอา 1,2,3 ปั่นหรือคนจนเป็นเนื้อเจล
2.ใส่ 4,5,6,7 ใส่ลงไปคนให้ละลายเข้ากับเนื้อเจล
3.ใส่ 8 คนจนเนื้อเจลเปลี่ยนเป็นสีขาวขุ่น
4.ใส่ 9 ลงไปขั้นตอนสุดท้าย คือไม่แน่ใจว่ามันจะเป็นผงกระจายในเนื้อเจล หรือละลายในน้ำ ตามที่หน้าเว็ปบอก
ลักษณะผลิตภัณฑ์: ผงสีขาว น้ำหนักเบา
การละลาย: กระจายตัวในสูตร หรือละลายในน้ำ
สามารถละลายน้ำได้ในอัตราไม่เกิน 1.0%w/v ถ้าในสูตรมีน้ำ 86% ก็ต้องใส่ [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/762-madecassoside-centella-asiatica-extract.html:2u5hr85j]Madecassoside[/url:2u5hr85j]-80 ที่0.86% ใช่ไหมคะ ถ้าอย่างนั้นจะปรับสูตรใส่แค่ 0.50%

ส่วนผสมกับวิธีการถูกไหมคะ

อีกสูตรครีมกันแดด กันน้ำไม่ได้ คุมหน้ามัน ครอบคลุม UVA UVB และอยากให้ PA++ หรือ +มากกว่านี้ก็ได้คะ
อยู่ในอาคาร ถ้าจะโดนแดดก็แค่ช่วงบ่ายชั่วโมงนึง อาทิตย์ละ 3-4ครั้ง ใช้ได้ทั้งผิวหน้าและตัว ผิวหน้าอุดตันได้ง่าย
ไม่ต้องการสีขาวเลย อยากให้เนื้อครีมบรรจุในหลอดบีบข้นเหมือนHand cream
PartA
1.น้ำ 77.80%
2.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:2u5hr85j]Disodium EDTA[/url:2u5hr85j] 0.20%

PartB
3.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/1048-spf-protect-ultra2.html:2u5hr85j]SPF Protect Ultra™[/url:2u5hr85j] II 10% (ที่ใส่แค่10% เพราะปกติทากันแดดซ้ำทุก 2 ชม.เลยคิดว่า ใส่ถึง 15-20%ไม่มีความจำเป็นหรือถ้าข้อมูลผิดพลาดช่วยแก้ไขด้วยนะคะ)
4.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/1040-milk-lotion-maker.html:2u5hr85j]Milk Lotion Maker™[/url:2u5hr85j] 4%
5.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/173-cetyl-alcohol-vegetable.html:2u5hr85j]Cetyl Alcohol (Vegetable)[/url:2u5hr85j] 4% (มีอยู่แล้ว)

PartC
6.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/make-up-bb-cream/518-silica-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7.html:2u5hr85j]MatteSilica™ (Silica ดูดซับความมันผิว)[/url:2u5hr85j] 3% (มีอยู่แล้ว)
ต้องการให้ซับมันจากผิวหน้าด้วย อยากให้สูตรไม่มันเหนียวเหนอะหนะ เกลี่ยลงผิวนุ่มลื่น ถ้าไม่ใส่เลย ตัว[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/1048-spf-protect-ultra2.html:2u5hr85j]SPF Protect Ultra™[/url:2u5hr85j] II เนื้อครีมจะออกมามัน เหนียว สาก ไหมคะ ไม่เคยทดลองแบบไม่ใส่ (ปกติใส่2% ทาที่ตัวและหน้าไม่เหนียวเหนอะหนะ แต่พอหน้ามันระหว่างวัน ก็ต้องเอากระดาษมาซับมันหน้า ถึงจะหายมัน คราวนี้เลยจะลองเพิ่มเป็น3% คาดหวังว่าจะคุมความมันบนใบหน้าได้)
7.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:2u5hr85j]Mild Preserved Eco™[/url:2u5hr85j] 1% (มีอยู่แล้ว)

วิธีการผสม

เอาส่วน A กับ B ไปอุ่นอุณหภูมิ 70-80องศา ให้ส่วนน้ำมันละลายเป็นเนื้อเดียวกัน
ขั้นตอนการผสม A and B คือมีคำถามคะ

ในหน้าของตัวอย่างสูตรกันแดดด้วย [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/1048-spf-protect-ultra2.html:2u5hr85j]SPF Protect Ultra™[/url:2u5hr85j] II 15%

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/1048-high-uva-uvb-protection.html:2u5hr85j]SPF Protect Ultra II[/url:2u5hr85j] 15%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/1040-milk-lotion-maker.html:2u5hr85j]Milk Lotion Maker[/url:2u5hr85j] 3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/247-satin-mousse-silky-cream-maker.html:2u5hr85j]Satin Cream Maker[/url:2u5hr85j] 0.7%
Water 80.3%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:2u5hr85j]Mild Preserved Eco[/url:2u5hr85j] 1%
ขั้นตอน:
ผสม 1+2 เข้าด้วยกัน โดยอุ่น 70องศา แล้วปั่นหรือคนให้เป็นเนื้อเดียวกัน เป็นส่วนของน้ำมัน
อุ่น 4 ให้ร้อน 60-70องศา เป็นส่วนของน้ำ
ปั่นส่วนของน้ำมัน และในขณะที่กำลังปั่นอยู่ ให้ค่อยๆเติมส่วนของน้ำลงไปในส่วนของน้ำมัน ปั่นให้เข้ากันอย่างน้อย 15นาที
เติม 3 ปั่นจนละลายอย่างสมบูรณ์ เนื้อจะข้นขึ้น จากนั้นเติม 5 ปั่นให้เข้ากัน

[b:2u5hr85j]จะให้ปั่นส่วนน้ำมันให้เข้ากันก่อนแล้วค่อยๆเติมส่วนน้ำลงไปในส่วนของน้ำมันแล้วปั่น[/b:2u5hr85j]

ตัวอย่างส่วนผสม และขั้นตอนการใช้ [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/1040-milk-lotion-maker.html:2u5hr85j]Milk Lotion Maker™[/url:2u5hr85j] สร้าง Lotion กันแดด
1.Water 59.5%
2.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/1048-spf-protect-ultra2.html:2u5hr85j]SPF Protect Ultra[/url:2u5hr85j] 20%
3.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emollient-ester-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/2054-dicaprylyl-carbonate.html:2u5hr85j]LipidSoft Dry[/url:2u5hr85j] 15%
4.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/1040-milk-lotion-maker.html:2u5hr85j]Milk Lotion Maker™[/url:2u5hr85j] 4.5%
5.[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/928-optiphen-plus.html:2u5hr85j]Phenoxyethanol SA[/url:2u5hr85j] 1%

ขั้นตอน
A: นำส่วนของน้ำมันทั้งหมดผสมรวมกัน (2+3+4) อุ่น 70องศา ให้ละลายเป็นเนื้อเดียวกัน จะมีลักษณะเนื้อเหลว
B: อุ่นส่วนน้ำ (1+5) ให้ใกล้เคียงกับส่วนของน้ำมัน (70องศา)
C: ในขณะที่กำลังปั่นส่วนของน้ำ ด้วยความเร็วสูง ให้ค่อยๆเติมส่วนของน้ำมันลงไป ปั่นต่อเนื่องให้เข้ากันในขณะที่กำลังเย็นลง โดยไม่ต้องใช้ความเร็วสูง
[b:2u5hr85j]แต่สูตรนี้ให้ปั่นส่วนของน้ำแล้วค่อยเติมส่วนน้ำมันลงไป มันต่างกันยังไงคะ [/b:2u5hr85j]
แบบไหนดีกว่ากัน ต่างกันอย่างไร เพราะไม่เคยใช้ [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/1040-milk-lotion-maker.html:2u5hr85j]Milk Lotion Maker[/url:2u5hr85j]

[b:2u5hr85j]ปกติจะใช้ Emulsifying Wax (E-Wax) (USA) 4% ประสานน้ำกับน้ำมัน
กับ [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/173-cetyl-alcohol-vegetable.html:2u5hr85j]Cetyl Alcohol (Vegetable)[/url:2u5hr85j] 4% เพื่อช่วยให้ข้น
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/175-polysorbate-20-tween-20.html:2u5hr85j]Tween20[/url:2u5hr85j] 1%
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ขอบคุณนะคะ

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello! It's a great idea to make serum and sunscreen for your mother. I will help review the formulas and methods.

Serum Formula

The ingredients you have chosen are very good. They include ingredients for brightening (Tranexamic Acid, Ethyl Ascorbic acid), protecting skin from pollution and sun (Ectoine), soothing and reducing wrinkles (Madecassoside), and moisturizing (Squalane), which effectively address your mother's needs.

Serum Mixing Method:

Mix Distilled Water, Disodium EDTA, Pro Polymer until a gel forms - This step is correct for preparing the gel base.
Add Ectoine, Tranexamic Acid, Ethyl Ascorbic acid, Mild Preserved Eco™ and stir until dissolved into the gel - This step is correct. These ingredients are water-soluble and should be added to the water phase (gel).
Add Squalane and stir until the gel turns cloudy - This step is correct. Squalane is an oil, and adding it to a water-based gel will cause it to disperse and make the gel cloudy.
Add Madecassoside-80 as the last step - Here, the solubility needs consideration. According to the information, Madecassoside-80 is soluble in water up to 1.0% w/v. In your formula, you have 86% water and you are adding 1% Madecassoside-80 of the total formula (which is 1g in a 100g formula). This means you want to dissolve 1g of Madecassoside-80 in 86g of water. The concentration in the water phase will be approximately (1/86)*100 = 1.16%, which slightly exceeds the solubility limit.
- Recommendation:
  - If you want a clear serum and ensure Madecassoside-80 is fully dissolved, you should reduce the amount of Madecassoside-80 to about 0.8% or less (e.g., 0.5% as you considered) so it can fully dissolve in the 86% water phase.
  - Alternatively, try adding Madecassoside-80 along with the ingredients in step 2 (to the water phase) and stir until dissolved before adding Squalane. If you still see powder remaining at 1%, it indicates it exceeds the solubility limit.
  - If clarity is not a major concern, adding 1% and dispersing it well in the gel base as you planned in the last step might work, but ensure it is dispersed very evenly.

Overall, the serum formula and mixing method are correct in principle. You just need to consider the solubility of Madecassoside-80 as mentioned.

Sunscreen Formula

This formula has interesting ingredients. It includes SPF Protect Ultra™ II as the main sunscreen agent, Milk Lotion Maker™ and Cetyl Alcohol as emulsifiers and thickeners, MatteSilica™ for oil control, and Mild Preserved Eco™ as a preservative.

Ingredient Suitability:

Sun Protection: You are using 10% SPF Protect Ultra™ II for indoor use with brief afternoon sun exposure 3-4 times a week. Reapplying every 2 hours helps significantly. However, for 68-year-old skin with frequent sun exposure (even without dark spots or melasma) and the goal of reducing wrinkles, higher sun protection would be much more beneficial. 10% SPF Protect Ultra™ II might not provide high enough SPF/PA to fully protect the skin from long-term wrinkle formation and dark spots. It is highly recommended to increase the amount of SPF Protect Ultra™ II to 15-20% to achieve higher SPF and PA values, which will protect your mother's skin better, even with reapplication.
Oil Control: 3% MatteSilica™ is an appropriate amount to help absorb oil on the skin surface more effectively than the 2% you previously used.
Texture: 4% Milk Lotion Maker™ and 4% Cetyl Alcohol should provide a reasonably thick cream texture suitable for a tube and should not feel overly greasy, especially with MatteSilica™ helping with oil control. SPF Protect Ultra™ II itself may have varying textures, but the other ingredients in the formula will help improve the overall feel.

Sunscreen Mixing Method and Questions:

Heat Part A and B to 70-80°C until the oil phase is uniform - This step is correct for preparing the water and oil phases for a Hot Process emulsion.
Question about mixing A and B (adding water to oil vs. adding oil to water):
- Generally, for Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsions, which are common in creams and lotions (oil dispersed in water), the recommended method that usually provides better stability is to slowly add the oil phase (Part B) into the water phase (Part A) while mixing the water phase at high speed. This helps the emulsifier in the water phase surround the incoming oil droplets quickly and keep them dispersed.
- The reverse method (adding water to oil) can sometimes lead to a temporary Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion before phase inversion to O/W, which can be harder to control and may result in a less stable emulsion.
- Conclusion: For Milk Lotion Maker™, which is likely an O/W Emulsifier, it is recommended to use the method of slowly adding the oil phase (Part B) into the water phase (Part A) while mixing Part A at high speed, similar to the second example formula you provided. This method generally yields better and more stable results.
- Difference from Emulsifying Wax (E-Wax) + Cetyl Alcohol + Tween 20: The Emulsifying Wax + Cetyl Alcohol + Tween 20 system is also a common O/W Emulsifier system. The fact that adding water to oil worked for you previously might be due to the specific properties of that E-Wax or the ratio you used. However, adding oil to water is generally the standard method for O/W. Milk Lotion Maker™ is an emulsifier blend designed specifically for creating lotion/cream textures. You can try using Milk Lotion Maker™ as recommended, or if you want something similar to E-Wax, you might look for other O/W Emulsifiers on the Myskinrecipes website with similar usage rates and recommended methods.
- Percentage of Milk Lotion Maker™ for Milk Lotion: The name Milk Lotion Maker™ suggests it's designed for a lotion consistency. The example formulas use 3-4.5%. Your formula uses 4%. The amount needed for a "milk lotion" consistency will depend on the oil phase percentage and other thickeners/waxes. 4% seems within the typical range for a lotion or light cream.
- Can Milk Lotion Maker™ 4% + Cetyl Alcohol 4% create a thick cream for a tube?: Yes, 4% of both ingredients, combined with the oil phase (10% or 15-20% as recommended), should be sufficient to create a cream consistency thick enough to be packaged in a tube. Cetyl Alcohol is a good thickener for O/W emulsions.
Once mixed, add MatteSilica™ and Mild Preserved Eco™ and continue mixing until the powder is dispersed into the cream - This step is correct. Adding MatteSilica™ after the emulsion has formed and cooled down is a common method to ensure the powder is well dispersed in the final cream and helps its oil-controlling properties work effectively on the skin surface.
- Difference from adding MatteSilica™ to the water phase: Adding MatteSilica™ to the water phase before emulsification might result in some powder being encapsulated within the oil droplets or interfering with the emulsification process. Adding it after emulsification and mixing well usually results in better texture (smoothness) and oil control performance. The method you plan to switch to (adding after the cream is formed) is the recommended method.

Summary of Recommendations:

Serum: The formula is good. Consider slightly reducing the amount of Madecassoside-80 (e.g., 0.5-0.8%) or try adding it to the water phase with other ingredients in step 2 to ensure it fully dissolves for a clear serum.
Sunscreen: Crucially, you should increase the amount of SPF Protect Ultra™ II to 15-20% for adequate sun protection for your mother's skin and better anti-aging benefits. For the mixing method, it is recommended to slowly add the oil phase (Part B) into the water phase (Part A) while mixing Part A. Adding MatteSilica™ after emulsification is the correct and recommended method. The amounts of Milk Lotion Maker™ and Cetyl Alcohol should provide the desired cream texture.

I hope this information is helpful. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!