Questions about AnyGel and Satin Cream Maker: Oil Compatibility, Mixing, and Ingredient Addition

ถามโดย: patsuma เมื่อ: June 09, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have some questions regarding formulation using AnyGel and Satin Cream Maker:

  1. Regarding AnyGel:
    • Is the maximum usage percentage 2%?
    • If used at 2%, is the maximum oil content limited to 10%?
  2. Regarding Satin Cream Maker:
    • Can it be used with an oil phase up to 25%?
  3. Regarding mixing the oil phase into the water phase (using Satin Cream Maker):
    • Should the oil phase be added gradually while stirring, rather than all at once?
  4. Regarding adding Mild Preserved Eco:
    • Should it be added at the very end, after the oil phase has been added?
  5. Regarding adding Ceramide:
    • When should Ceramide be added to the formula?
  6. Regarding using a high oil content (total 25%) with Satin Cream Maker:
    • If using a total oil phase of 25%, specifically 15% Shea Butter + 10% Moringa Oil, is this feasible? Or should the oil percentage be reduced because it might result in too little water in the formula?

คำตอบ

Response to your questions about AnyGel and Satin Cream Maker

Thank you for your detailed questions regarding your formulation challenges. Based on your questions and the previous staff response, here is a summary of the information:

Regarding the AnyGel formula:

  • Oil Compatibility: AnyGel is primarily designed as a water-phase thickener. When used alone without other emulsifiers, it has limited ability to emulsify oils. It is generally recommended that the oil phase does not exceed 10% of the formula when using AnyGel by itself. Exceeding this limit can lead to formula separation.
  • Clumping Issue: The clumping you observed is likely due to using a high concentration of AnyGel (more than 2%) and/or incomplete dissolution of the powder. AnyGel needs to be properly dispersed in water to hydrate and form a smooth gel.
  • Electrolytes and Viscosity: Your formula contains ingredients that are electrolytes, such as Calcium Pantothenate (confirmed by staff). Other extracts like Aloe Vera, Cucumber, and Wakame may also contribute electrolytes depending on their specific form and purity. High electrolyte concentrations can significantly reduce the viscosity provided by AnyGel. While increasing AnyGel might seem like a solution, it can lead to clumping and may not fully counteract the thinning effect of high electrolytes. For formulas with significant electrolyte content and oil, a different thickener or emulsifier system might be more suitable.
  • Recommendation for Dry/Irritated Skin with Electrolytes: Given the presence of electrolytes and your goal for dry/irritated skin, switching to an emulsifier system like Satin Cream Maker to create a cream texture (as you suggested) is a good approach. Creams are generally more emollient and can be formulated to be more stable in the presence of electrolytes compared to simple gels thickened solely with ingredients like AnyGel.

Regarding the Satin Cream Maker formula:

  • Oil Compatibility: Yes, Satin Cream Maker is designed to emulsify an oil phase of up to 25% of the total formula.
  • Mixing Procedure: The mixing procedure you described is correct, especially if you are not using a high-shear mixer. You should:
    1. Combine the water-soluble ingredients in the water phase.
    2. Add Satin Cream Maker to the water phase and mix/stir until a gel forms.
    3. Separately mix the oil phase ingredients (remembering to heat and melt Shea Butter if used).
    4. Gradually add the oil phase into the water/Satin Cream Maker gel while continuously mixing or stirring until a homogeneous cream is formed. Adding the oil phase slowly while mixing helps ensure proper emulsification.
  • Adding Mild Preserved Eco: Mild Preserved Eco should generally be added in the final step after the emulsion has formed, especially if you used heat to melt ingredients like Shea Butter. If no heat is used throughout the process, it can sometimes be added earlier, but adding it last is a safe practice.
  • Adding Ceramide: The timing for adding Ceramide depends on the specific type you are using. We offer different types of Ceramides (e.g., Ceramide Complex). Could you please specify which one you have? Generally, oil-soluble Ceramides are added to the oil phase, while water-soluble or dispersed Ceramides might be added to the water phase or at the end, depending on their properties.
  • Using 15% Shea Butter + 10% Moringa Oil (25% total oil): Yes, you can use a total oil phase of 25% consisting of 15% Shea Butter and 10% Moringa Oil with Satin Cream Maker. To ensure good stability with this oil load, we recommend using Satin Cream Maker at a concentration of 1.5% to 2.0%. Remember to heat the Shea Butter until it is fully melted and liquid before mixing it with the Moringa Oil and adding it to the water phase. Using 25% oil is well within the capacity of Satin Cream Maker and will result in a richer cream texture suitable for dry skin. The remaining percentage in the formula will be the water phase and other ingredients, which is a standard composition for a cream.

We hope this clarifies your questions. Please let us know if you have further inquiries!

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