Questions about Non-Foaming Facial Cleansing Gel Formulation

Question

Regarding a non-foaming facial cleansing gel formulation, I have the following questions: Does Lactic Acid in a facial cleansing gel get washed off and not remain on the skin? Does WaterLock cause the facial cleansing gel texture to become thinner? In a previous facial cleansing gel I made (different formula), adding WaterLock immediately made the texture thinner and much less viscous, even though I added SugarThick 2%. Should I use other skin-adhering moisturizing agents instead of WaterLock? Can Xanthan Gum create a thicker gel texture than SugarThick?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Non-Foaming Facial Cleansing Gel Analysis

Regarding your formula for a non-foaming facial cleansing gel and your questions:

Lactic Acid: Yes, Lactic Acid in a facial cleanser is designed to be rinsed off and will not remain on the skin after washing.
WaterLock and Viscosity: It is possible that WaterLock can reduce the viscosity of the gel cleanser. The staff suggests that you can use other gelling agents to help SugarThick perform better. For example, you could pre-mix the total water phase with Xanthan Gum until a light gel forms before adding other ingredients.
Alternative Moisturizing Agents: WaterLock is considered suitable for leaving a slippery feel on the skin. However, other options that are popular for leaving a light coating on the skin after cleansing include Poly-Conditioner Eco (Polyquaternium-7) and Poly-Conditioner Pro. These are cationic ingredients that adhere to the skin.
Xanthan Gum vs. SugarThick: Xanthan Gum can create a thicker and more stable gel than SugarThick. However, it is generally more difficult to incorporate and produces a different gel texture. These gelling agents can be used together to improve performance. The staff recommends testing different combinations or using them individually to find the best texture and ease of production for your formula. Xanthan Gum is typically used at concentrations between 0.1% and 2%.