Questions about Oil Blend Formulation: pH, High Concentration, and UV Protection

ถามโดย: kanut เมื่อ: January 25, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have successfully created an oil blend formulation similar to Bio-Oil with the following ingredients:

  • Jojoba Oil + Rose Hip Oil (Base)
  • Pro-Niacin™ 6%
  • Perfect-C™ 5%
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V 2%
  • Capryloyl Salicylic Acid 10%
  • Horse Oil 5%
  • Protec™ UV 0.1%

The texture and absorption are good, with no phase separation. I have a few questions:

  1. Regarding Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), is the recommended pH range of 3-6 still relevant for stability and efficacy in this pure oil-based formula? Does Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) function to adjust pH in this context?
  2. Is using such high concentrations of active ingredients like 10% Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and 6% Pro-Niacin suitable for regular use, especially on the face? What are the potential risks?
  3. What is the function of Protec™ UV in this formula, and is it necessary to use an amber or opaque bottle for packaging, or is storing it away from light sufficient?

คำตอบ

Okay, I see you've experimented with making your own oil blend similar to Bio-Oil and had a good experience! That's great that it worked well for you. Let's address your specific questions based on your proposed formula: Jojoba Oil + Rose Hip Oil base with 6% Pro-Niacin, 5% Perfect-C™, 2% SKIN-DEFENSE® V, 10% Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, 5% Horse Oil, and 0.1% Protec™ UV.

  1. Regarding pH and LHA for Perfect-C™: You are correct that pH is typically measured in water-based solutions, not pure oils. The recommended pH range of 3-6 for Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) applies when it's used in formulations containing water. Since your formula is entirely oil-based, pH is not a relevant factor for the stability or efficacy of Perfect-C™. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) is oil-soluble and acts as an exfoliant in oil formulations, but it doesn't function to adjust pH in this context.
  2. Regarding Concentration Suitability: Your formula uses significantly higher concentrations of active ingredients compared to the original Bio-Oil, which lists its active botanical extracts and vitamins much lower down its ingredient list (indicating lower percentages). While you found the texture acceptable and absorption good, using high concentrations like 10% Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and 6% Pro-Niacin (Myristyl Nicotinate) can potentially cause skin irritation, redness, or sensitivity, especially with regular use on the face. If you experience any irritation, you might consider reducing the concentration of these potent actives.
  3. Regarding Protec™ UV and Bottle Type: Protec™ UV (Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol) is added to help protect the formula itself from UV degradation, improving its stability. While it offers protection, it doesn't make the formula completely immune to light damage. An amber or opaque bottle is generally recommended for oil-based products and formulations containing potentially light-sensitive ingredients (like some oils or actives) as it provides an extra layer of protection against light exposure, helping to maintain the product's quality and lifespan. While not strictly mandatory if you store the product carefully away from light, an amber bottle offers better long-term stability assurance.

It's great that your experimental batch turned out well! Just be mindful of the high active concentrations and watch for any signs of irritation on your skin.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
เครื่องสำอาง
Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin Organic)
Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin Organic)
เครื่องสำอาง
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) EZ™
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) EZ™
เครื่องสำอาง
Horse Oil (extracted/purified thick cream)
Horse Oil (extracted/purified thick cream)
เครื่องสำอาง