Questions about Oil Serum Formulation: Texture, Exfoliation Effectiveness, and Stability

Asked by: rr30 On: April 10, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have an oil serum formulation and would like to ask two questions:

My formula is approximately as follows (by weight):

  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: ~89.3%
  • Activated Resorcinol: ~1.0%
  • Wild Yam Extract: ~2.4%
  • Alpha Lipoic Acid: ~2.4%
  • Capryloyl Salicylic Acid: ~4.9%

My questions are:

  1. Will this formula increase the stickiness of the oil?
  2. Is 4.5% (approximately 4.9%) Capryloyl Salicylic Acid sufficient for exfoliation?

Answer

Regarding your proposed formula and questions:

First, here is your formula converted to approximate percentages by weight (assuming the density of Fractionated Coconut Oil is ~0.92 g/ml):

  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: ~89.3%
  • Activated Resorcinol: ~1.0%
  • Wild Yam Extract: ~2.4%
  • Alpha Lipoic Acid: ~2.4%
  • Capryloyl Salicylic Acid: ~4.9%

Now, to address your questions:

  1. Will this formula increase the stickiness of the oil? Adding solid ingredients to an oil base can slightly increase its viscosity or change the skin feel depending on their solubility and concentration. In your formula, the total concentration of added solids is around 10.7%. While Fractionated Coconut Oil is very light, adding these ingredients, especially at these concentrations, might make the final product feel slightly less 'dry' or a bit richer than pure Fractionated Coconut Oil. However, it is unlikely to become excessively sticky, and may still be suitable for daytime use depending on your preference and skin type.

  2. Is 4.5% Capryloyl Salicylic Acid sufficient for exfoliation? Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) is a derivative of Salicylic Acid known for its exfoliating properties. It is generally considered milder than traditional Salicylic Acid and penetrates the skin more slowly due to its lipophilic nature. A concentration of ~4.9% LHA is relatively high compared to typical usage rates for Salicylic Acid in leave-on products (often 0.5-2%). While this concentration can provide exfoliation, its effectiveness varies depending on the specific LHA used and individual skin response. It's important to note that using LHA at this concentration, especially in combination with other potent actives like Activated Resorcinol, carries a higher risk of irritation. Start with patch testing and observe your skin's reaction.

As the staff previously mentioned, please ensure you use Activated Resorcinol within the manufacturer's recommended usage rate to avoid irritation. Also, store the final product in a light-protected container as Activated Resorcinol can change color when exposed to light.