Questions on Encapsulated BHA, Willow Bark Extract, Ezerrawax, Glycyrrhetinates, and DeoMax

Question

I have several questions regarding various ingredients: Regarding encapsulated BHA, there are two types: powder and liquid. What is the suitable pH range in the final product for both forms of encapsulated BHA to be absorbed and effective for clogged pores? I'm curious why encapsulated BHA "powder type" is gentler than the "liquid type," even though both are in encapsulated form. What is the suitable pH if using Willow Bark Extract 10% to dissolve clogged pores, considering using it as an alternative to encapsulated BHA liquid 6.6%? Regarding the use of Ezerrawax™, can it be used alone without adding other oils to help dissolve Ezerrawax™? I saw the dissolution instruction for another ingredient stating, "Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid is an oil itself; it doesn't need any other oil to dissolve it," so I wanted to ask before mixing. (Question 5 was not present in the provided text, skipping) Regarding the use of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate and Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, should I choose only one because they perform similar functions? Is this understanding correct? Following up on topic7306.html, I was able to dissolve DeoMax completely as advised. Thank you. I have two questions: If left standing, DeoMax settles/precipitates. Do you have any recommendations to keep DeoMax dispersed throughout? If I don't add Poloxamer 407, what will be the effect? (I want to avoid unnecessary ingredients as it's for oral contact). I want to try using Ezerrawax™ but am concerned if it might increase clogged pores, as I see it dissolves in oil.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Inquiry Response

Hello,

Thank you for your questions. Here are the answers based on the information provided:

Encapsulated BHA pH: The suitable pH range for the final product containing encapsulated BHA (both powder and liquid forms) for absorption and effectiveness against clogged pores is pH 3.5-6.
Encapsulated BHA Powder vs. Liquid Gentleness: Encapsulated BHA powder is considered gentler than the liquid form for two main reasons:
- The powder type has a better Release Profile (how the active BHA is released from the encapsulation shell).
- The liquid type contains a surfactant used to help dissolve BHA and create a charge for better skin adhesion. This surfactant can be irritating in leave-on formulas. The liquid encapsulated BHA is therefore more suitable for rinse-off products like facial cleansers.
Willow Bark Extract pH for Clogged Pores: Willow Bark Extract has significantly lower effectiveness for dissolving clogged pores compared to Encapsulated Salicylic Acid. The provided text does not specify an optimal pH for Willow Bark Extract for this purpose, but notes its lower efficacy.
Ezerrawax™ Dissolution: If your formula does not contain other oils, you can dissolve Ezerrawax™ by heating it until it becomes a liquid oil and then combine it with the formula's cream maker. For example, if using Butter Cream Maker, heat Ezerrawax and Butter Cream Maker together until melted and combined, then proceed with formulating.
Ezerrawax™ Dissolution Method: Based on the provided text, Ezerrawax™ needs to be dissolved by heating until it becomes a liquid oil and then combined with the cream maker. The text confirms the heating and combining with the cream maker step.
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate vs. Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid: Your understanding is correct; you should choose one over the other as they perform similar functions.
DeoMax Sedimentation:
- Regarding the sedimentation of DeoMax, could you please specify how much sedimentation occurs? This information is needed to provide recommendations for dispersion.
- Poloxamer 407 acts as an emulsifier for Four EO in the formula. If you omit Poloxamer 407, you would need to replace it with Ethyl Alcohol or omit Four EO entirely.
Ezerrawax™ and Clogged Pores: Any oil, butter, or wax has the potential to increase the risk of clogged pores. If you are prone to clogged pores, it is recommended to use Ezerrawax™ in a low amount.