Questions on Ingredient Compatibility, Solubility, Emulsification, and Comedogenicity for Serum Formula

Asked by: jiralexk On: September 12, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have several questions regarding ingredients for a serum formula:

  1. Can Phytosphingosine SA and RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) be emulsified using Water in Oil EZ?
  2. Is Octyldodecanol necessary to dissolve Phytosphingosine SA? Can other oils be used instead? I am planning to use Jojoba Oil at a high concentration (almost 100%) to dissolve Phytosphingosine SA at 0.2%; is this possible?
  3. Can the following list of ingredients be mixed together in the same formula:
    • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline)
    • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5)
    • Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule)
    • Ume Extract
    • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
    • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine)
    • RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract)
    • Apple Stem Cell
    • Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
    • 1,3-Propanediol (Natural)
    • Ethoxydiglycol
  4. Will Octyldodecanol cause clogged pores or acne?
  5. I am not receiving email notifications for forum replies. Is the system working correctly?

Answer

Answers regarding Phytosphingosine SA, RETINAT™, and other ingredients

Here are the answers to your questions based on the staff's replies:

  1. Can Phytosphingosine SA and RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) be emulsified with Water in Oil EZ?
    Yes, Water-in-Oil EZ can be used as an emulsifier for these ingredients. However, please note that it requires a blender and cannot be mixed by hand.

  2. Is Octyldodecanol necessary to dissolve Phytosphingosine SA? Can other oils be used?
    Octyldodecanol is recommended for optimal dissolution and performance of Phytosphingosine SA, especially in formulas with low oil content (10-20%). However, if your formula has a high oil proportion (like your case using Jojoba Oil at almost 100%), other oils can also dissolve Phytosphingosine SA at a concentration of 0.2%. If you plan to use other specific oils, you can inform the staff to check their suitability.

  3. Can the listed ingredients be mixed in the same formula?
    Yes, all the ingredients you listed can be mixed in the same formula without any issues:

    • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline)
    • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5)
    • Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule)
    • Ume Extract
    • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
    • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine)
    • RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract)
    • Apple Stem Cell
    • Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
    • 1,3-Propanediol (Natural)
    • Ethoxydiglycol
  4. Will Octyldodecanol cause clogged pores or acne?
    Octyldodecanol is considered an oil that can potentially clog pores. However, whether clogging occurs depends primarily on your skin type, followed by the usage rate, and then the ingredient's comedogenicity. Many ingredients, including almost all natural oils, are also considered potentially able to clog pores. If you are concerned about clogging, you can choose to use it only at the necessary rate or select other oils, but choosing other oils does not guarantee that it will not clog your pores.

  5. Regarding email notifications:
    The staff informed that the automatic email system for forum replies is still functioning normally, but the emails might be in your junk mail folder. Please check there.