Questions on Ingredient Substitution, Foaming, and Penetration Enhancement

Hello,

Thank you for your questions regarding your ingredients and formulation plans.

Regarding your first question about adding the ingredients to your existing cosmetic product:
As the staff previously mentioned, your existing product is a water-based formula without oil-water emulsifiers. Therefore, you can only add ingredients that are directly soluble in water. Based on the ingredients you listed, the following are water-soluble and can be added:

• DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol) - The staff recommended starting at 5% instead of 10% to avoid potential irritation and stickiness.
• N-Acetyl Glucosamine and L-Tyrosine (listed together as N-Acetyl L-Tyrosine) - Can be added at 2%.
• Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) - Can be added at 3%.
• Soy Extract (Isoflavones, Genistein) - The staff recommended starting at 2-3% instead of 5% to avoid stickiness.
  Ingredients that are not water-soluble or require specific emulsification methods cannot be added to this existing product.

Regarding your second question about making a lightweight serum from scratch using your proposed formula with Silky Serum Base Plus, Cyclomethicone, and Phospholipid:
The staff recommended using AnyGel as a simpler way to create a gel-based formula for beginners. Your proposed formula involves ingredients like Silky Serum Base Plus, Cyclomethicone, and Phospholipid, which suggests creating an emulsion (mixing oil/silicone and water phases). This type of formulation is generally more complex than a simple gel and requires specific knowledge of emulsification techniques and potentially different equipment than a handheld blender to achieve a stable and desirable texture. The staff did not provide specific mixing instructions for your proposed formula with Silky Serum Base Plus, Cyclomethicone, and Phospholipid.

Regarding your question about substituting Myristyl Nicotinate with Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) in the AnyGel formula suggested by the staff:
Yes, as the staff confirmed, you can replace Myristyl Nicotinate 5% with Repair Activator 10-15% in that formula. Since Repair Activator is directly water-soluble and the formula does not require heating, you can add it to the water phase at the beginning of the mixing process, as advised by the staff.

Regarding your question about substituting Phospholipid with 1,2-Hexanediol in the AnyGel formula due to foaming:
The staff mentioned that the foaming issue with Phospholipid might be related to the mixing method or equipment used. They also stated that Phospholipid generally offers better penetration enhancement and skin feel compared to 1,2-Hexanediol. While they are not direct substitutes due to different properties, if your primary goal is penetration enhancement and you prefer not to use Phospholipid, you can use 1,2-Hexanediol 3% in the formula. It can be added either in the initial water phase or in the final step.

Hope this clarifies your questions!