Recommended Formulations for Clogged Pores, Redness, and Brightening

Asked by: amioat On: May 25, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am looking for advice on formulating a product to address multiple skin concerns: clogged pores, redness, large pores, and achieving skin brightening.

Initially, I considered making a lotion with the following ingredients:

  • BHA (Salicylic Acid)
  • Retinyl Palmitate
  • Witch Hazel
  • Other ingredients for moisturizing and brightening.

However, I have some questions regarding the formulation:

  1. Is my initial idea of combining all these ingredients into a single lotion suitable and effective for these multiple concerns?
  2. I understand BHA (Salicylic Acid) can dissolve in Glycerin and Propylene Glycol. How much can it dissolve in Glycerin alone, and does adding Propylene Glycol significantly improve its solubility?
  3. I believe Witch Hazel is water-soluble. Should it be placed in the water phase of the formulation?

Please provide guidance on the feasibility of my proposed formula and address the specific solubility questions. If my approach is not ideal, please suggest alternative formulation strategies.

Answer

Recommended Formulations

Based on your question and the detailed response from the staff, the recommended approach is to create two separate products rather than a single lotion. This strategy helps to effectively target your concerns about clogged pores, redness, large pores, and skin brightening while minimizing potential irritation, especially given your skin's sensitivity.

1. BHA Toner (for clogged pores and cleaning pores)

This toner is designed to help clear remaining clogged pores and cleanse the pores, which can help reduce their appearance.

  • Formula:
    • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off): 6.6% (This provides 2% active Salicylic Acid)
    • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 3%
    • Water: 90.4%
  • Usage: Apply as a toner in the evening after cleansing your face.
  • Notes:
    • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid is a gentler form of BHA that releases slowly. It helps exfoliate and dissolve impurities in pores.
    • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) is included to help reduce potential irritation from the BHA and support skin healing.

2. Nourishing and Treatment Gel (for redness, large pores, and brightening)

This gel focuses on soothing redness, improving the appearance of large pores, and brightening the skin.

  • Base: Water + Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule and/or Nano Molecule) to create a double hyaluronic gel base. Hyaluronic Acid helps provide deep and surface hydration.
  • Formula Additions:
    • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 3% (Can increase to 5% if redness is severe) - Vitamin B3 helps reduce redness, hyperpigmentation, and oiliness, and strengthens the skin barrier.
    • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 3% - Works synergistically with Vitamin B3 for skin brightening and reducing dark spots. It also helps stimulate the skin's own Hyaluronic Acid production.
    • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): 3% - Excellent for reducing inflammation, redness, and promoting wound healing.
    • Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid: 4% - Helps control skin oiliness and has antibacterial properties which can be beneficial for acne-prone skin.
    • Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free): 50% - Acts as an astringent to help tighten pores and has soothing properties.
  • Usage: Apply after using the BHA toner in the evening.
  • Notes:
    • Using a Hyaluronic Acid gel base simplifies the formulation as it doesn't require emulsifiers like a lotion would.
    • The combination of Vitamin B3 and Acetyl Glucosamine is known to be effective for brightening and reducing hyperpigmentation.
    • Witch Hazel is water-soluble and is correctly placed in this water-based gel formula at a concentration high enough to be effective for pore tightening.

Answers to Your Questions

  • Initial Formulation Correctness: The staff's recommendation suggests a different, two-product approach is more suitable for your skin concerns and sensitivity, rather than validating your initial single lotion formula. They specifically advised against using Retinyl Palmitate if you are also using BHA due to potential irritation.
  • Witch Hazel Placement: Yes, you were correct. Witch Hazel is water-soluble and should be in the water phase of your formulation, as included in the staff's recommended gel formula.
  • BHA Solubility: The staff confirmed that BHA (Salicylic Acid) can dissolve in Glycerin to a limited extent. Adding Propylene Glycol can help improve its solubility. However, the recommended BHA toner uses Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, which is designed to be water-dispersible, making it easier to incorporate into a water-based toner without needing other solvents like glycerin or propylene glycol for solubility.

This two-product routine allows for targeted treatment of your specific concerns with ingredients known to be effective, while also being mindful of your skin's sensitivity.