Recommended Serum Formula for Melasma, Dark Spots, and Wrinkles

Recommended Serum Formula for Melasma, Dark Spots, and Wrinkles

Dear Momojji,

Thank you for reaching out and providing detailed information about your skin concerns and desired serum properties. We understand you are looking for a potent serum to address severe dark spots (melasma and lentigines), strengthen your skin, reduce wrinkles, and have a non-sticky texture suitable for use under makeup.

Your understanding of the need for whitening, exfoliation (peeling), and skin strengthening is correct. As the staff mentioned, consistent sun protection is the most critical factor for managing melasma and preventing its recurrence.

Based on your list of interested ingredients and your skin concerns, we recommend a serum formulation incorporating the following active ingredients. This combination targets pigmentation through multiple pathways, supports skin renewal, strengthens the skin barrier, and provides anti-aging benefits.

Recommended Active Ingredients:

• For Reducing Dark Spots (Melasma & Lentigines):

  • Tranexamic Acid (ID 1140): Known to help reduce the appearance of melasma. (Suggested %: 3%)
  • MSH White Absorb™ (ID 699): Works by inhibiting MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) which triggers melanin production. (Suggested %: 5%)
  • Activated Resorcinol™ (ID 493): A highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor, targeting the enzyme essential for melanin synthesis. (Suggested %: 1%)
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) (ID 74): Helps reduce melanin transfer to skin cells and offers multiple benefits including barrier support and anti-aging. (Suggested %: 5%)
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%) (ID 1502): Provides whitening and soothing properties. (Suggested %: 0.05%)
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) (ID 116): Works with Niacinamide to improve skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation. (Suggested %: 4%)
  • Yeast Radiance™ (ID 1199): Promotes skin clarity and radiance. (Suggested %: 3%)
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment (ID 218): Offers mild exfoliation and brightening effects. (Suggested %: 3%)

• For Reducing Wrinkles:

  • Matrixyl 3000 (ID 51): A peptide blend that helps stimulate collagen production, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. (Suggested %: 5%)

• For Skin Strengthening & Hydration:

  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) (ID 74): (Already listed for whitening) Also improves skin barrier function, reducing moisture loss and increasing resilience.
  • Double Hyaluronic Acid (ID 404): Provides intense hydration at different skin layers, plumping the skin and improving texture without stickiness (depending on formulation). (Suggested %: Please refer to product usage guidelines for serum formulation, typically 1-5%)
  • Phytosphingosine SA (ID 1261): Supports skin barrier repair and offers mild exfoliation. (Suggested %: 0.2%)

• Stabilizer:

  • Disodium EDTA (ID 184): Helps maintain product stability. (Suggested %: 0.2%)

Total Suggested Active Concentration: Approximately 29.45% + Hyaluronic Acid %. This is a high concentration of actives, designed for potent results.

Serum Texture:

To achieve a non-sticky serum that layers well under makeup, the choice of base ingredients and thickeners is crucial. Using Double Hyaluronic Acid is a good start for hydration with a potentially lighter feel than single high molecular weight HA. The final texture will depend on the specific serum base and texturizers used in the formulation. You may need to work with the lab to select a base that provides the desired light, fast-absorbing feel.

Licorice Extract (Glabridin 40% vs 90%):

As the staff explained, the difference lies in purity and color. Glabridin 90% (ID 1502) is more pure and lighter in color than Glabridin 40% (ID 1503). Both are effective at equivalent active concentrations. Since you listed Glabridin 90% at 0.05%, this is a suitable choice and its lighter color might be preferable in a serum.

This combination of ingredients provides a multi-targeted approach to address your concerns regarding dark spots, wrinkles, and skin strength, while aiming for a user-friendly texture.

We hope this recommendation is helpful for ordering your TESTER serum.

Sincerely,
The R&D Staff