Recommended Sunscreen for pH-Changing Lip Oil (SPF50 PA+) and Lab Testing
Question
I am formulating a pH-changing lip oil and need to incorporate sunscreen to achieve a high protection level of SPF50 PA+.
- Which oil-soluble sunscreen ingredients or blends are recommended for achieving this high SPF level in an anhydrous lip oil formulation?
- Can the final lip oil product be submitted to MySkinRecipes Expert's SPF Lab service for official testing and validation of the SPF50 PA+ claim?
Answer
For formulating a pH-changing lip oil with a target of SPF50 PA+, the most suitable approach is to use a pre-blended, oil-soluble sunscreen system.
Recommended Sunscreen System
While BEMT (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, ID: 772) is an excellent and highly stable sunscreen, achieving a high SPF in an anhydrous (oil-only) lip oil can be challenging, especially if the specific BEMT product you have is the water-soluble form mentioned in its description.
We highly recommend using SPF Protect Ultra™ III (UVA+UVB) (ID: 35118), which is a blend of oil-soluble sunscreens (including BEMT) designed for high-SPF oil-based formulas.
- SPF Protect Ultra™ III (UVA+UVB) (ID: 35118): This is an oil-soluble blend that provides full-spectrum UVA/UVB protection and is highly stable.
- To achieve SPF50: Use this blend at a concentration of approximately 20% of the total formula. (The product description indicates 20% usage provides approximately SPF50).
Formulation Guidance for Lip Oil
To create a non-sticky lip oil base that effectively dissolves the sunscreens, consider using an emollient designed for this purpose:
- LipidSoft™ SPF (ID: 9730): This emollient ester is specifically designed to help dissolve chemical sunscreens and reduce stickiness, making it an ideal base for your lip oil.
General Lip Oil Formula Structure:
- Sunscreen: SPF Protect Ultra™ III (UVA+UVB) (ID: 35118) (approx. 20%)
- Solvent/Base: LipidSoft™ SPF (ID: 9730) (adjust as needed, e.g., 10-30%)
- Oil Base: Other light oils (e.g., Jojoba Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) (balance of formula)
- pH-Changing Colorant: A suitable pH-sensitive dye (e.g., Red 27 or similar) to achieve the color-changing effect.
SPF Lab Testing
Yes, your final lip oil product can be submitted for SPF/PA measurement using our SPF Lab service. The service is available for customers who purchase ingredients from us. You can use the points earned from purchasing ingredients like BEMT (ID: 772) or SPF Protect Ultra™ III (ID: 35118) to cover the cost of the testing.
- Products mentioned:*
- BEMT (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Bemotrizinol, e.q. Tinosorb S) (ID: 772)
- SPF Protect Ultra™ III (UVA+UVB) (ID: 35118)
- LipidSoft™ SPF (ID: 9730)
- Octocrylene (ID: 268)
