Recreating Laura Mercier Lip Silk and Lip Balm Formulations

Asked by: ppatanavanich On: September 28, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I recreate Laura Mercier Lip Silk and Laura Mercier Lip Balm based on their ingredient lists? I understand exact ratios may not be available, but I'd like guidance on the function of the ingredients and suggestions for alternatives and approximate usage ranges to achieve similar formulations.

Answer

Recreating Laura Mercier Lip Silk and Lip Balm

Thank you for providing the ingredient lists for Laura Mercier Lip Silk and Lip Balm. While the exact percentages are proprietary, we can break down the ingredients and suggest alternatives available in our store to help you create similar formulations. Achieving the precise texture will require experimentation with the ratios of emollients, gelling agents, and waxes.

Laura Mercier Lip Silk

This formula appears to be an oil-based gel or balm, focusing on creating a smooth, protective film with some added skincare benefits. Key components and suggested alternatives:

  • Base/Gelling Agents: Petrolatum, Mineral oil (and) Hydrogenated Butylene/Ethylene Styrene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethylene/ Propylene/Styrene Copolymer. These provide the core texture and occlusive properties.
    • Suggested Alternatives: You can use Petrolatum (Product ID: 33303) as a primary base. For the oil gelling effect, consider Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Gel (Versagel) (Product ID: 35730) or Hectorite Gel (Mineral Oil Base) (Product ID: 664). These help create a gel-like consistency in oil bases.
  • Emollients/Skin Conditioners: Mineral oil, Dromeceius (Emu) Oil, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Apple Extract, Allantoin.
    • Suggested Alternatives: Mineral Oil (Product ID: 654) is a standard emollient. For Emu Oil, which can be difficult to source, consider other nourishing oils like Jojoba Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, or Avocado Oil (check store availability for specific IDs). Cyclomethicone (Product ID: 171) and Dimethicone (Product ID: 508) are silicones that provide a silky, non-greasy feel. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) (Product ID: 65) is an antioxidant and moisturizer. Apple Stem Cell Extract (Product ID: 7779) offers anti-aging benefits. Allantoin (Product ID: 75) helps soothe and reduce irritation.
  • Film Former: Triacontanyl PVP.
    • Suggested Alternative: Triacontanyl PVP (Product ID: 8446) itself is available and helps with film formation and water resistance.
  • Exfoliants/pH Adjusters: Citric Acid, Glycolic acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Salicylic Acid.
    • Suggested Alternatives: Citric Acid (Product ID: 30693) and Malic Acid (Product ID: 11014) are available for pH adjustment. Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Salicylic Acid (Product ID: 148) are AHAs/BHA that can offer gentle exfoliation, but should be used at very low concentrations and with caution in lip products due to potential irritation.
  • Texture Enhancer: Silica.
    • Suggested Alternative: MatteSilica (Product ID: 518) can help with texture and oil absorption.
  • Preservatives: Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben.
    • Note: These are parabens. If you prefer to avoid parabens, alternative preservative systems are available (not searched in this instance).

Estimated Usage Ranges (for experimentation):

  • Petrolatum / Oil Gel Base: 50-80%
  • Mineral Oil / Other Emollients: 10-30%
  • Silicones (Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone): 5-15%
  • Film Former (Triacontanyl PVP): 1-5%
  • Antioxidants / Extracts (Vitamin E, Apple, Allantoin): 0.1-5%
  • AHA/BHA (Citric, Malic, Glycolic, Lactic, Salicylic): <1% (use very cautiously)
  • Silica: 0.1-5%
  • Preservatives: 0.1-1%

Laura Mercier Lip Balm

This formula is a more traditional balm with a blend of oils and waxes for structure, moisture, and sun protection, plus various conditioning and antioxidant ingredients.

  • Oil Base: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Lanolin Oil, Octyldodecanol, Propylene Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Lanolate, Oleyl Alcohol, Polybutene, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil.
    • Suggested Alternatives: Castor Seed Oil is a common base oil for lip products. Lanolin Oil (Product ID: 1272) and Lanolin (Product ID: 335) provide intense moisture. Octyldodecanol (Product ID: 1270) and Ethylhexyl palmitate (Product ID: 529) are available emollients. Polybutene (Product ID: 126040) adds gloss and adhesion. Safflower Seed Oil (Product ID: 127) and Grape Seed Oil (Product ID: 120) are nourishing oils. Propylene Glycol (Product ID: 138) is a humectant, and Glyceryl Ricinoleate (Product ID: 10585) is an emollient/emulsifier. Isopropyl Lanolate and Oleyl Alcohol are other emollients to consider.
  • Waxes: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ozokerite, Paraffin, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Tribehenin, Disteardimonium Hectorite.
    • Suggested Alternatives: Candelilla Wax (Product ID: 271), Ozokerite Wax (Product ID: 1258), Carnauba Wax (Product ID: 270), and Tribehenin (Product ID: 1081) are available waxes to provide structure and hardness. Paraffin wax is a common wax. Disteardimonium Hectorite (Product ID: 750 or as part of Hectorite Gel Product ID: 664) acts as an oil gelling and suspending agent.
  • Sunscreens: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, Ethylhexyl Salicylate.
    • Suggested Alternatives: Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) (Product ID: 523) and Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Product ID: 269) are available UVB sunscreens. Ensure you follow recommended usage rates.
  • Other Ingredients: Mica, Retinyl palmitate, Flavor (Aroma), Ethylene Brassylate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract.
    • Suggested Alternatives: Mica (Product ID: 291) for color/shimmer. Vitamin A Palmitate (Retinyl Palmitate) (Product ID: 192), Vitamin E (Tocopherol) (Product ID: 135), and Vitamin C Ester (Ascorbyl Palmitate) (Product ID: 200) are available antioxidants/vitamins. Aloe Vera Extract (Product ID: 76) soothes. Sorbitan Isostearate (Product ID: 7378) is an emulsifier. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (related peptides like Product ID: 11060 available) is a peptide for skin conditioning. Green Tea Extract (EGCG) (Product ID: 2156) is an antioxidant. Flavor can be added as desired.

Estimated Usage Ranges (for experimentation):

  • Oils (Castor, Lanolin Oil, etc.): 30-60%
  • Waxes (Candelilla, Carnauba, Ozokerite, Tribehenin, Paraffin): 10-30% (adjust for desired hardness)
  • Lanolin: 5-20%
  • Sunscreens (Octinoxate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate): Up to regulatory limits (typically 5-10% combined)
  • Polybutene: 1-10%
  • Emollients (Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, etc.): 5-20%
  • Antioxidants / Vitamins / Extracts / Peptides: 0.1-5%
  • Sorbitan Isostearate: 1-5%
  • Mica / Flavor: As needed

Remember that these are starting points, and achieving the desired texture and feel will require careful formulation and testing. Good luck with your cosmetic making!)

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