Analysis of Proposed Replacements

Replacing Adenosine Liposome with Adenosine Triphosphate

• Original: Adenosine Liposome 3% (Liquid, pH 3.5-6.5)
• Proposed: Adenosine Triphosphate 3% (Powder, requires pH 6.8-7.4)

Both Adenosine Liposome and Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) are forms of adenosine, known for anti-wrinkle and skin revitalizing properties. Functionally, ATP can offer similar benefits. However, the critical difference lies in their required pH ranges for stability and efficacy. Adenosine Liposome works well in a more acidic to neutral range (pH 3.5-6.5), while Adenosine Triphosphate requires a higher, slightly alkaline pH (6.8-7.4). If your original formula was balanced for Adenosine Liposome (pH 3.5-6.5), switching to Adenosine Triphosphate would necessitate adjusting the final formula pH significantly higher to 6.8-7.4.

Replacing Glycosaminoglycans with Ectoine + Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)

• Original: Glycosaminoglycans 5% (Powder, dissolves in water <40C, primarily for hydration and skin condition)
• Proposed: Ectoine 5% (Powder, dissolves in water, pH 1-9, withstands heat up to 80C) + Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) 2% (Powder, disperses/dissolves in water max 1%, pH 4-6.5, do not expose to heat, mix in final step)

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are important for skin hydration and maintaining the extracellular matrix. Your proposed combination of Ectoine and Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) offers a blend of benefits that can help compensate for the removal of GAGs and potentially enhance the formula.

• Ectoine is a multi-functional ingredient providing strong hydration, barrier support, anti-irritation, and protection against environmental stressors (UV, heat, pollution). At 5%, this is a significant and beneficial addition.
• Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) is excellent for stimulating collagen production, wound healing, reducing inflammation, and calming redness. At 2%, this provides potent skin repair and anti-aging effects.

The combined benefits of Ectoine and Madecassoside cover hydration, skin repair, and anti-aging, making them a functionally relevant replacement for Glycosaminoglycans. The proposed percentages are within the recommended usage rates for both ingredients.

Formula Adjustment: Reducing Distilled Water

• You are replacing 5% of one ingredient with a total of 7% of two ingredients (5% Ectoine + 2% Madecassoside 90%). This increases the total active percentage by 2%.
• Reducing distilled water by 2% is the correct adjustment to keep the total formula percentage at 100%.

Key Consideration: pH Compatibility

The most significant challenge with your proposed changes is the pH incompatibility between the proposed Adenosine Triphosphate and the Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%).

• Adenosine Triphosphate requires a pH of 6.8-7.4.
• Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) works best in a pH range of 4-6.5.

If you adjust the formula pH to suit Adenosine Triphosphate (6.8-7.4), the efficacy of the Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) may be significantly reduced, as it is outside its optimal range. Conversely, if you maintain a pH suitable for the Centella extract (4-6.5), the Adenosine Triphosphate may not be stable or effective.

Recommendation

1. Consider the pH: You need to decide on the target pH for your final formula.
   • If you prioritize the benefits of Adenosine Triphosphate, you must adjust the pH to 6.8-7.4. Be aware this may compromise the effectiveness of the Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%).
   • If you prioritize the benefits of Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%), you should aim for a pH of 4-6.5. In this case, Adenosine Triphosphate would not be a suitable replacement for Adenosine Liposome due to its pH requirement. You might need to find an alternative ingredient with similar benefits that works in the 4-6.5 pH range, or omit the Adenosine component if no suitable alternative is available.
2. Replacements are Functionally Relevant (with pH caveat): Assuming the pH can be managed, the proposed replacements offer relevant benefits. Ectoine and Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) together provide good hydration, protection, and repair. Adenosine Triphosphate provides anti-aging benefits.
3. Test Batch: Due to the significant changes, especially the pH consideration, it is highly recommended to make a small test batch to check for stability, appearance, and feel before making a full batch.

In summary, while the ingredients you've chosen are beneficial, the pH requirements of Adenosine Triphosphate and Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) conflict. You must choose a target pH and potentially find an alternative for the Adenosine component if you want to keep the pH in the optimal range for the Centella extract.