Replacing Pro Polymer in Self-Tanning Gel Formula

Asked by: accent51 On: June 08, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can Viscolam AT 100P replace Pro Polymer in a self-tanning gel formula, or what other alternatives are recommended for achieving the desired texture and viscosity?

Answer

Replacing Pro Polymer™ in Your Self-Tanning Gel Formula

You're looking to replace Pro Polymer™ in your Self-Tanning Gel formula. Pro Polymer™ (INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) acts as a gel maker and thickener in water-based systems, helping to create the desired gel texture and suspend ingredients.

Regarding your question about Viscolam AT 100P, while it can function as a thickener, its primary role is often as a water-oil binder (emulsifier). Your formula is a gel water with a high percentage of water (90%), so a dedicated water-phase gel maker is generally more suitable for achieving the intended gel structure compared to an emulsifier that also thickens. Therefore, Viscolam AT 100P might not be the most direct or ideal replacement for Pro Polymer™ in this specific formula type.

Recommended Alternatives:

Several other ingredients can effectively replace Pro Polymer™ as a water-phase gel maker in your formula. Consider these options:

  • Carbomer U21 (Self-Wetting, Wide pH Range): This ingredient has the same INCI name (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) as Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker). This makes it a very strong candidate for a direct substitute, likely providing a similar texture and performance.
  • Aristoflex AVC: This is another popular and effective gel-forming agent for water-based formulas. It can create clear gels and tolerate some oil.
  • Carbomer Ultrez 30 (Electrolyte Tolerance): If your formula contains ingredients that are electrolytes (salts), this Carbomer type is known for its good electrolyte tolerance, which helps maintain viscosity in such systems.

When replacing Pro Polymer™ at 1%, you can start by using the alternative at the same percentage (1%) and adjust as needed based on the resulting viscosity and texture. Each thickener can behave slightly differently, so testing is recommended.