Replacing Silica Dimethyl Silylate for Pigment Suspension in Lip Gloss

Wetting Silica Dimethyl Silylate (SDS) is a common challenge in anhydrous formulations like lip gloss, as it typically requires high-shear equipment (like a rotor-stator homogenizer) and specific processing temperatures to fully "bloom" and create a stable network. Without an overhead stirrer or high-shear processing for the entire batch, it often results in clumps or poor suspension.

Replacing Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Since you are already using Hydrogenated Poly (C6-14 Olefin) Gel, you have an excellent ready-to-use alternative. This product is a pre-gelled hydrocarbon that provides high gloss, a cushioned feel, and strong pigment suspension without the need for the difficult wetting process associated with silica powders.

To replace the 1.5% SDS in your formula, you should increase the percentage of Hydrogenated Poly (C6-14 Olefin) Gel. While 4% provides some rheology modification, increasing it to 10-15% will significantly improve the suspension of micas, lakes, and oxides while maintaining a smooth, non-gritty texture.

Suggested Formula Adjustment

By removing the SDS and increasing the pre-made gel, you can simplify your process. You can use your homogenizer specifically for the "Pigment Syrup" phase to ensure the micas and oxides are perfectly dispersed before blending them into the main gel base.

Processing Recommendations

1. Main Phase: Combine the oils and the Hydrogenated Poly (C6-14 Olefin) Gel. Heat to 80-85°C. Add the Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (DPHP) and antioxidant, mixing until completely dissolved and the gel is uniform.
2. Pigment Syrup: In a separate container, mix Diisostearyl Malate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer, and your pigments. Use your homogenizer here to ensure all pigments (especially oxides and lakes) are fully de-agglomerated and "wetted" by the esters.
3. Combination: Add the Pigment Syrup to the Main Phase while still warm. Mix thoroughly using your non-shear blade until the color is uniform.
4. Cool Down: Allow the mixture to cool to approximately 40°C before adding the natural oils and flavor.

By increasing the pre-gelled component, you eliminate the risk of "silica seeds" (unwetted clumps) and ensure your pigments remain suspended over time without needing high-shear for the entire large-volume batch.