Replicating Hand Cream Texture with Silicone Feel and Emulsifier Limits

Asked by: aon.ohn On: August 18, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a hand cream with a soft, silicone-like coating feel, similar to a product I like. Based on the ingredients of that product, how can I formulate a hand cream to achieve this texture?

I understand the staff mentioned limitations with emulsifiers like Butter Cream Maker regarding the oil phase percentage. What is a suitable base formula, and how can I incorporate other beneficial ingredients like:

  • Betaine
  • CITRUS UNSHIU PEEL EXTRACT
  • ORCHID EXTRACT
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  • CAMELLIA JAPONICA LEAF EXTRACT
  • OPUNTIA COCCINELLIFERA FRUIT EXTRACT
  • Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin
  • Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
  • Panthenol

into the formula while maintaining the desired texture and respecting emulsifier limits?

Answer

Based on the ingredient list you provided and the staff's response, the soft, silicone-like coating feel of the hand cream you like is likely due to the high concentration of silicones (Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone) and Glycerin.

The staff provided a sample base formula designed to achieve this texture. You can use this as a starting point and add other beneficial ingredients from the original hand cream's list.

Sample Base Formula for Silicone-like Feel:

  • Glycerin (ID 143): 15%
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (ID 171): 15%
  • Cetearyl Alcohol (ID 480): 10%
  • Dimethicone (ID 508): 5%
  • Butter Cream Maker (ID 1041) or Milk Lotion Maker (ID 1040): 4%
  • Water: Remaining percentage

To this base, you can add the active ingredients identified by the staff from the original product for their specific benefits:

  • Betaine (ID 164)
  • CITRUS UNSHIU PEEL EXTRACT
  • ORCHID EXTRACT
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (ID 729)
  • CAMELLIA JAPONICA LEAF EXTRACT
  • OPUNTIA COCCINELLIFERA FRUIT EXTRACT
  • Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (ID 89)
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin (ID 256)
  • Sodium Hyaluronate (ID 105)
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (ID 117)
  • Panthenol (ID 111)

Please note the staff's comment regarding the emulsifier: If using Butter Cream Maker (ID 1041), ensure the total oil phase in your final formula (including silicones, oils, butters, etc.) does not exceed 30%, as this emulsifier has a limitation on the amount of oil it can emulsify.

Also, as the staff mentioned about Glycerin, the feeling on the skin can vary for each person. You might need to test the formula and adjust the percentages of Glycerin and Silicones to get the exact feel you desire.