Resolving Pilling in Serum with Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Asked by: nichaiwit On: February 13, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a serum formula containing Polymethylsilsesquioxane and a Gel Maker (Pro Polymer Acrylate Crosspolymer). When I apply it, it pills or rolls off the skin. I tried adding Dimethicone, but it didn't resolve the issue. What causes this pilling, and how can I modify my formula to prevent it?

Answer

Hello,

Regarding your serum formula and the pilling issue you're experiencing:

  1. Cause of Pilling: Based on your observation that removing Polymethylsilsesquioxane eliminated the pilling, and the staff's explanation, it is highly likely that Polymethylsilsesquioxane is the primary cause in this formula. Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a powder ingredient that needs a component in the formula to help it adhere to the skin and form a film. Without this, it can easily rub off as pills. While other ingredients can potentially contribute to pilling in general, in your specific case, the interaction involving Polymethylsilsesquioxane and the lack of a proper film-former appears to be the main factor.

  2. How to Fix: The staff recommends modifying the formula to include an ingredient that can create a film on the skin and help the Polymethylsilsesquioxane adhere. The suggested solution is to:

    • Add a wax like Beeswax (recommended concentration 3-4%). Beeswax acts as a film-former and also helps thicken the formula.
    • Reduce or remove the Gel Maker (Pro Polymer Acrylate Crosspolymer). Since Beeswax will provide thickening, the Gel Maker may not be needed or can be used at a lower concentration.
    • Reduce the concentration of Polymethylsilsesquioxane to 2-3% to be compatible with the Beeswax level.

Adding Beeswax helps create a matrix on the skin that holds the Polymethylsilsesquioxane in place, preventing it from separating and forming pills when rubbed. Your attempt to add Dimethicone did not resolve the issue because the staff's recommended solution involves a different type of film-forming ingredient (wax) to properly bind the Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

Hope this helps!

Best regards,
Team MySkinRecipes