Review and Adjustment of a High-Concentration Serum Formula for Sensitive, Dry Skin with Wrinkles

ถามโดย: isandee เมื่อ: March 12, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have formulated a gel-based serum using Pure Aloe Vera Gel as the base for my thin, sensitive, dry, loose skin with wrinkles. The formula is as follows:

  • N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) 4%
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 5%
  • beta glucan 5%
  • WaterLock™ 2%
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 20%
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™) 5%
  • DMAE 4%
  • Matrixyl™ 3000 8%
  • Lift-Now™ 3%
  • Ectoin 1%
  • Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 2%

Could you please review this formula and provide feedback, especially regarding its suitability for my skin type and the high concentration of active ingredients?

คำตอบ

Hello,

Regarding the ingredient list you provided, I have calculated the total percentage of all Active Ingredients (excluding the Pure Aloe Vera Gel base) as follows:
4% (N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine) + 5% (Vitamin B5) + 5% (beta glucan) + 2% (WaterLock™) + 20% (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) + 5% (Vitamin B3) + 4% (DMAE) + 8% (Matrixyl™ 3000) + 3% (Lift-Now™) + 1% (Ectoin) + 2% (Phospholipid) = 59%

A total percentage of 59% is considered quite high. Generally, the total concentration of Active Ingredients in cosmetic formulations is limited to around 25-30%, although it can sometimes be higher depending on the specific ingredients and desired product texture. Using an excessively high amount of active ingredients can lead to formulation instability, poor absorption, stickiness, or potentially cause skin irritation, especially for sensitive skin.

Based on the staff's recommendations:

  • For sensitive skin, it is recommended to remove DMAE from the formula (originally 4%).
  • For dry skin, a gel-based formula without oils might not provide sufficient moisture. It is advisable to consider adding oil, wax, or butter components to help create a protective layer on the skin, reduce water loss, and increase skin hydration.

To adjust the formula to better suit your skin type (thin, sensitive, dry, loose, with wrinkles) and bring the total percentage of Active Ingredients into a more appropriate range, you can consider reducing the percentages of some ingredients and adding oil/butter for dryness.

Example of a Revised Formula (Focusing on dry skin, wrinkles, firmness, and soothing sensitive skin):

  • N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 2% (Slight reduction)
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 5% (Keep)
  • beta glucan: 3% (Slight reduction)
  • WaterLock™: 2% (Keep)
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: 5-10% (Reduced significantly)
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™): 3% (Slight reduction)
  • DMAE: 0% (Removed as advised)
  • Matrixyl™ 3000: 4-6% (Reduced)
  • Lift-Now™: 2% (Slight reduction)
  • Ectoin: 1% (Keep)
  • Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin): 1% (Slight reduction)
  • Total Active Ingredients: Approximately 28-33% (depending on the adjustment of Galactomyces and Matrixyl)
  • Add an oil component, such as Squalane or other oils suitable for dry and sensitive skin, around 5-10%.
  • The remaining percentage would be the base (Pure Aloe Vera Gel, or you could consider using a suitable cream/lotion base for a different texture and more hydration).

Adjusting the percentages as suggested in this example will help bring the total Active Ingredient percentage into a more suitable range while still including key ingredients for moisturizing, anti-aging, lifting, and soothing sensitive skin. It is recommended to double-check the recommended usage rate for each ingredient to ensure optimal efficacy and safety for your skin.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
เครื่องสำอาง
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera)
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka Pitera)
เครื่องสำอาง
Lift-Now™
Lift-Now™
เครื่องสำอาง
Phospholipid
Phospholipid
เครื่องสำอาง
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
เครื่องสำอาง