Review and Adjustment of Acne Toner Formula

Subject: Feedback on your proposed acne reduction toner formula

Hi there,

Thanks for sharing your toner formula for acne reduction. You've chosen several ingredients known for their benefits for acne-prone skin, such as Niacinamide, Licorice Extract, LHA, and Azelaic Acid.

However, looking at the percentages, the proposed formula contains a very high concentration of multiple potent active ingredients for a toner format. Specifically:

• Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) Liquid at 10%
• Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) at 10%
• Witch Hazel at 50%

Combining these at such high levels in a single product, especially a toner which is typically applied over the entire face, significantly increases the risk of skin irritation, redness, dryness, peeling, and sensitivity. While these ingredients are effective for acne, their concentrations in this formula might be too aggressive for most skin types when used as a toner.

Furthermore, formulating such high percentages of actives like LHA and Azelaic Acid together in a stable and effective water-based system can be challenging.

Recommendations for Adjustment:

To make this formula safer, less irritating, and more suitable as a toner, I strongly recommend reducing the concentrations of the potent actives:

1. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA) Liquid: Reduce the percentage significantly. Typical usage rates for LHA in leave-on products are much lower. Please check the supplier's recommended usage rate for your specific "LHA Liquid" product, but a concentration of the liquid ingredient in the range of 1% to 3% might be more appropriate for a toner.
2. Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): Reduce the percentage. While 10% is used in some treatments, for a toner, a concentration of the liquid ingredient in the range of 2% to 5% would be less irritating while still offering benefits. Again, check the supplier's recommendations for "Liquid Azelaic™".
3. Witch Hazel: Reduce the percentage. While alcohol-free, 50% is still a high concentration. Reducing it to 10% to 20% would be less likely to cause dryness or irritation, especially when combined with other actives.
4. Niacinamide (5%) and Licorice Extract (1%): These concentrations are generally reasonable, but slightly reducing Niacinamide to 2-4% could further minimize flushing risk.
5. Distilled Water: Increase the percentage to balance the formula after reducing other ingredients.
6. Phenoxyethanol (1%): This is a standard preservative concentration and is fine.

Adjusting these percentages will result in a milder toner that is less likely to cause adverse reactions while still providing beneficial ingredients for acne-prone skin. Remember that formulation also involves ensuring proper solubility, stability, and pH adjustment, which can be complex with multiple actives.

It's always a good idea to start with lower concentrations of actives and gradually increase if needed and if the skin tolerates it. Testing the final product on a small area first is also recommended.

I hope this feedback is helpful!