Formulation Feedback for Moisturizing and Firming Serum

Thank you for sharing your facial serum formulation aimed at increasing moisture and firmness. Let's review the concentrations of the ingredients you've included.

Ingredient Concentration Review

1. Sea Kelp Bioferment (20%): You are correct to question this concentration. Based on the information for Sea Kelp Extract, the recommended usage rate for skin care is typically 1-10%, with 1-3% being commonly recommended. Using 20% is significantly higher than the recommended maximum and may lead to issues such as a noticeable fishy smell from the marine extract.

2. DMAE Liquid (20%): You noted this is equivalent to 4% concentrated DMAE. However, the product description for DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid indicates it is a 50% concentration of the active ingredient (Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate). Therefore, 20% of this liquid is equivalent to 10% active DMAE. The recommended usage rate for DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid is 1-10%, with 3% being recommended. It is noted that using above 5% may cause skin irritation and a sticky texture. Using 20% liquid (10% active) is significantly above the level where irritation and stickiness are likely to occur.

3. Panthenol Vitamin B5 (5%): For D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5, 100% Liquid), the recommended usage rate for skin is 1-10%, with 1-3% recommended. Using more than 5% may result in a sticky feeling on the skin.

4. Natto Gum (3%): This is within the recommended usage range of 3-10% for Natto Gum, although the recommended level is 5%. It provides good moisture.

5. L-Tyrosine (2%): This is at the maximum recommended usage rate of 1-2% for Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine). It works well with DMAE for firming.

6. Pro Polymer (2%): This is within the recommended usage range of 0.5-5% for Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker). This amount should help create a suitable gel texture, especially considering the other ingredients.

7. Phenoxyethanol (0.7%): This is within the recommended usage range of 0.5-1.0% for Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) and is appropriate for preservation.

Suggested Adjustments

Based on the recommended usage rates and potential issues with high concentrations, I recommend adjusting the formula, particularly reducing the amounts of Sea Kelp Bioferment, DMAE, and potentially Panthenol. Starting with lower concentrations allows you to test the texture and skin feel and adjust upwards if needed, as suggested in the previous reply.

Here is a suggested revised formula to consider as a starting point:

• Natto gum: 3%
• Sea kelp Bioferment: 5% (Reduced from 20% to be within the recommended range)
• L-Tyrosine: 2%
• Panthenol vitamin B5: 3% (Reduced from 5% to minimize potential stickiness)
• DMAE Liquid: 6% (Equivalent to 3% active, within the recommended range and less likely to cause irritation/stickiness than 20% liquid)
• Propolymer: 2%
• Phenoxyethanol: 0.7%
• Water: Adjust to 78.3% (To make the total 100%)

This revised formula uses concentrations of Sea Kelp Extract, DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid, and D-Panthenol Care (Pro-Vitamin B5, 100% Liquid) that are within or closer to their recommended ranges, which should help improve the texture and reduce the risk of irritation or off-odor while still providing moisturizing and firming benefits.

Your mixing method seems appropriate for incorporating these ingredients into a water-based gel serum.