Review and Adjustment of Nighttime Facial Cream Formulation for Acne, Irritation, and Brightening

Hello, thank you for sharing your formula for review. This formula contains several interesting ingredients aimed at reducing irritation, reducing clogged pores, and brightening the skin.

Based on the ingredients in your formula, here are some observations and recommendations:

Function of Key Ingredients based on Objectives:

• Reducing Irritation: The formula includes several good ingredients for this purpose, such as Licorice Extract, Pro Vitamin B5, Atopic-Telmestein, SKIN-DEFENSE V, and Shea Butter, which help soothe the skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
• Reducing Clogged Pores: Contains Salicylic Acid (BHA), a key ingredient effective in exfoliating within pores and reducing blockages. It also includes L-Carnitine, Pure MSM, and AcneBee Extra, which have properties to help control oil and reduce acne-related inflammation.
• Skin Brightening: Features Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine), WhiteCumin 2 (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids), and Sym-White, a group of skin brightening agents that work well together.

Points to Consider and Recommendations:

1. Compatibility and Stability:

   • Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): Salicylic Acid is effective in acidic conditions (around pH 3-4), while Niacinamide is most stable and least likely to convert to Niacin (which can cause flushing, redness, and itching) in the pH range of 5-6. Using these two ingredients together in the same formula can lead to Niacinamide instability or reduced Salicylic Acid efficacy. If you wish to use them together, consider adjusting the formula's pH to a suitable range or using formulation strategies to minimize interaction, such as using a specific delivery system for Salicylic Acid.
   • Ethyl Alcohol: The inclusion of Ethyl Alcohol in a facial cream, especially one focused on reducing irritation, should be carefully considered. Ethyl Alcohol can be drying to the skin and may increase the potential for irritation, particularly when combined with an acid like Salicylic Acid. If it's used to help dissolve certain ingredients, consider using a smaller amount or a milder alternative solvent. If not essential for dissolving key actives, you might consider removing it.
   • Extract Compatibility: The formula contains several extracts mixed within Reservoir-Tech. The long-term compatibility of these extracts should be verified.

2. Improving Efficacy:

   • Adding Soothing Agents: Although the formula contains several anti-irritant ingredients, the presence of Salicylic Acid and Ethyl Alcohol might still cause irritation. Adding more ingredients that help strengthen the skin barrier or reduce inflammation, such as Ceramides, Cholesterol, Fatty Acids, or plant extracts with anti-inflammatory properties, could be beneficial.
   • Increasing Hydration: The formula already includes Butylene Glycol and Pro Vitamin B5 for hydration. Adding a small amount of Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Hyaluronate could further enhance hydration and make the skin appear plumper.

3. Texture Adjustment:

   • The original formula had 2% Satin Cream Maker and 4% Cetearyl Alcohol as emulsifiers and thickeners. The fact that the cream was too liquid suggests the amount of emulsifier/thickener might not have been sufficient for the oil phase percentage and desired viscosity.
   • Adding another 0.5% Satin maker is a correct approach to increase viscosity. Satin Cream Maker is an emulsifier/thickener that provides a silky mousse-like texture, which might be the desired feel.
   • Increasing Cetearyl Alcohol is also a valid option. Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that helps increase viscosity, emulsion stability, and provides a soft feel on the skin. Increasing Cetearyl Alcohol will result in a slightly thicker and richer cream compared to increasing Satin maker.
   • Recommendation: If you like the texture achieved by adding more Satin maker, you can continue to adjust its amount as needed. Alternatively, you could try increasing Cetearyl Alcohol slightly (e.g., add 1-2%) to see the effect on viscosity and long-term emulsion stability. Experimenting with adjusting the amounts of both might yield the best results. You should test the stability of the adjusted formula (e.g., for separation) at different temperatures.

Summary of Recommendations:

1. Check and Adjust pH: Consider adjusting the formula's pH to be optimal for either Salicylic Acid (around 3-4) or Niacinamide (around 5-6), or use delivery system techniques to mitigate compatibility issues. If prioritizing BHA efficacy for clogged pores, a lower pH might be necessary, which could increase the potential for Niacinamide-related irritation.
2. Consider Ethyl Alcohol: Evaluate the necessity of Ethyl Alcohol and consider using a smaller amount or a milder alternative solvent. If not essential for dissolving key actives, consider removing it.
3. Test Compatibility: Perform compatibility and stability testing on the adjusted formula, especially after modifying pH or key ingredient percentages.
4. Texture Adjustment: Increasing Satin maker or Cetearyl Alcohol (or both) is the correct way to increase viscosity. Experiment with amounts until you achieve the desired texture and viscosity, and test the emulsion stability.

This formula contains many good ingredients that address the main objectives. If you can manage the compatibility between Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide and adjust the texture appropriately, it will be an interesting facial cream formula.

I hope these recommendations are helpful for further formula development.