Review and Adjustment of Skin Repair and Firming Serum Formula

ถามโดย: pee166 เมื่อ: January 30, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am developing a serum formula aimed at skin repair, firming, promoting healthy, hydrated skin, and addressing sun sensitivity and enlarged pores. I have experimented with the following formula and would like expert advice and recommendations:

  • Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 10%
  • Adenosine Complex 5%
  • B3 (Niacinamide) 4%
  • L-Carnitine 2%
  • Royal Jelly Fresh 5%
  • Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) 20%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Satin Mousse 0.5%
  • Water 52.5%

Could you please review this formula and provide guidance?

คำตอบ

Feedback on Your Skin Repair Serum Formulation

Hello! I understand you are developing a serum formulation aimed at skin repair, firming, promoting healthy skin, and hydration. You also mentioned having sun-sensitive skin and enlarged pores. The formula you've experimented with includes several interesting ingredients.

Let's review each ingredient in your proposed formula:

  • Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 10%: This is an excellent ingredient for skin repair and anti-aging. It helps stimulate the repair of skin DNA damaged by sun exposure. The concentration of 10% is within the recommended range.
  • Adenosine Complex 5%: Adenosine has properties that help reduce wrinkles and provide energy to skin cells for repair. However, there are different types of Adenosine (e.g., Adenosine Triphosphate, Pure-Adenosine™, Energy-Blend™) which each have different recommended usage rates, solubility, and optimal pH ranges. Using 5% Adenosine might be too high for some types (like Pure-Adenosine™), and water solubility could be an issue. You should verify the specific type of Adenosine Complex you are using to ensure the concentration is appropriate and compatible with a water-based formula.
  • B3 (Niacinamide) 4%: Vitamin B3 offers a wide range of benefits, including reducing wrinkles and dark spots, increasing moisture, strengthening the skin barrier, controlling oiliness, and helping with acne and enlarged pores. A concentration of 4% is an appropriate and effective level. It also helps strengthen the skin barrier, which can potentially reduce sun sensitivity.
  • L-Carnitine 2%: L-Carnitine helps balance moisture, gently accelerates skin cell turnover (making it a good alternative for sun-sensitive skin compared to typical AHA/BHA), helps control oil, firms the skin, and can aid in recovering from sun damage. The concentration of 2% is within the recommended range and suitable for the goal of gentle exfoliation.
  • Royal Jelly Fresh 5%: If this ingredient refers to Royal Jelly Extract containing the active compound 10-HDA (such as Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid), its primary properties are controlling oiliness and reducing acne. The recommended usage rate for this type of extract is typically 0.1-1%. Using 5% might be too high and may not significantly increase effectiveness. Furthermore, 10-HDA extract is usually oil-soluble, which could pose a challenge in mixing with a water-based serum. You should verify the specific type of ingredient or consider using it at the recommended rate and with the correct mixing method.
  • Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) 20%: Alcohol-free Witch Hazel is an excellent ingredient for helping to tighten pores. A concentration of 20% is within the suitable range and is commonly used in toners or serums for this purpose.
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%: This is a commonly used preservative. A concentration of 1% is at the higher end of the recommended range, which is sufficient for preserving the formula.
  • Satin Mousse 0.5%: We could not find information on an ingredient named "Satin Mousse" in our database. It might be a specific trade name or a texture-providing ingredient. You should verify the correct INCI Name for this ingredient.
  • Water 52.5%: This is the main solvent in a water-based formula.

Additional Considerations:

  • pH Compatibility: Several ingredients have different optimal pH ranges (e.g., L-Carnitine and B3 are best at pH 4-7, Repair Activator and potentially Royal Jelly Extract 10-HDA are best at pH 4-5.5). You should adjust the formula's pH to a range that is most suitable for the majority of the key active ingredients. Generally, a pH between 4-5.5 or 4-7 should work for most ingredients in this formula. L-Carnitine may require the pH to be adjusted down from its raw material pH.
  • Mixing Method: You should strictly follow the mixing instructions for each ingredient, especially regarding temperature and phase (e.g., adding some ingredients in the final step for Repair Activator and Witch Hazel, and avoiding high heat).

Overall, your formula contains many good ingredients that address your goals of skin repair, firming, and promoting healthier skin. However, you should clarify the specific types of Adenosine Complex and Royal Jelly Fresh/Satin Mousse, and pay careful attention to pH adjustment and mixing methods.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
เครื่องสำอาง
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin
Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin
เครื่องสำอาง
Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid (98% Purity)
Royal Jelly Extract 10-hydroxydecanoic acid (98% Purity)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
เครื่องสำอาง
Chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.)
Chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure-Adenosine™
Pure-Adenosine™
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Energy-Blend™ (Caffeine+Adenosine+Vitamin B3)
Energy-Blend™ (Caffeine+Adenosine+Vitamin B3)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol P5
Phenoxyethanol P5
เครื่องสำอาง
Extreme-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Highest Purity)
Extreme-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Highest Purity)
เครื่องสำอาง
Repair Activator™ WS (Bifida Ferment Lysate, Water Base)
Repair Activator™ WS (Bifida Ferment Lysate, Water Base)
เครื่องสำอาง