Review and Advice for Anti-Aging Spray, Acne Toner, and Powdery Feel Cream Formulas

Asked by: nubird_ja On: March 03, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to create three cosmetic products and need advice on the formulas and mixing methods. I have already purchased the ingredients. Some ingredients are expiring in March.

  1. Anti-wrinkle spray for my 54-year-old mother: She doesn't like sticky creams, so I want to make a face spray for morning use before makeup. It should provide general skin nourishment, whitening, and firming/lifting.

    • Formula Ingredients:
      • Full & Lift™ 5 %
      • Lift-Now™ 1 %
      • beta glucan 5 %
      • WhiteCumin™ 2x 3 %
      • Trisiloxane 2%
      • SiliSolve Plus™ 0.5 %
      • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 3%
      • glycerin 4%
      • Disodium EDTA 0.2 %
      • Avocado Oil 2 %
      • MOIST24 3 %
    • Proposed Mixing Method: Weigh water, add EDTA, dissolve water-soluble ingredients, mix Trisiloxane, Avocado Oil, add SiliSolve, slowly add water phase to oil phase, then add Full & Lift™. Is this correct?
  2. Toner for acne and pore tightening: My skin is quite oily, especially in the T-zone, and I have enlarged pores.

    • Formula Ingredients:
      • Willow Bark Extract 5 %
      • Butylene Glycol 5 %
      • glycerin 4.5 %
      • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 3%
      • Allantoin 0.5 %
      • Tea Tree Oil 0.5 %
      • Vitamin B6 0.5 %
      • Phenoxyethanol 0.5 %
      • EDTA 0.2 %
    • Proposed Mixing Method: Dissolve Vitamin B6 separately with water, adjust pH, then add other ingredients. Is this correct?
  3. Moisturizing cream for oily, acne-prone skin with large pores: I want it to help with whitening and provide slight moisture. I want a cream that is not sticky and has a powdery feel.

    • Formula Ingredients:
      • Satin Cream Maker 1 %
      • MOIST24 - 4 %
      • Trisiloxane 2 %
      • PowderCream™ 3 %
      • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 3 %
      • WhiteCumin™ 3 %
      • Full & Lift™ 5 %
      • AcneBee™ 1.5 %
      • Phenoxyethanol 1 %
    • Proposed Mixing Method: For Full & Lift™, must it be added in the final step in the cream base after heating the cream (50-60°C)?

Answer

Hello!

I understand that you have purchased all the ingredients and would like assistance reviewing your three formulas and their mixing instructions. I also note your concern about some ingredients expiring soon.

Based on the information you provided and the staff's advice, here are the recommendations for each formula:

1. Anti-wrinkle spray (for mother, 54 years old)

  • Goal: General skin nourishment, whitening, firming, lightweight spray texture.
  • Ingredients listed: Full & Lift™ 5%, Lift-Now™ 1%, beta glucan 5%, WhiteCumin™ 2x 3%, Trisiloxane 2%, SiliSolve Plus™ 0.5%, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 3%, glycerin 4%, Disodium EDTA 0.2%, Avocado Oil 2%, MOIST24 3%.
  • Your proposed method: Weigh water, add EDTA, dissolve water-soluble ingredients, mix Trisiloxane, Avocado Oil, add SiliSolve, slowly add water phase to oil phase, then add Full & Lift™.
  • Staff Advice:
    • This formula uses SiliSolve Plus™, which is an emulsifier that results in a serum or cream texture. It cannot be made into a water spray as you intended.
    • Your proposed mixing method is incorrect for SiliSolve Plus™. The staff recommends studying the instructions for using SiliSolve Plus™ on the product details page on the MySkinRecipes website for the correct mixing method, should you still wish to make a serum/cream with these ingredients.

2. Toner (for oily T-zone, helps with acne and pore tightening)

  • Goal: Reduce acne, tighten pores, for oily skin.
  • Ingredients listed: Willow Bark Extract 5%, Butylene Glycol 5%, glycerin 4.5%, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 3%, Allantoin 0.5%, Tea Tree Oil 0.5%, Vitamin B6 0.5%, Phenoxyethanol 0.5%, EDTA 0.2%.
  • Your proposed method: Dissolve Vitamin B6 separately with water, adjust pH, then add other ingredients.
  • Staff Advice:
    • The staff indicated that the formula provided is not complete (does not add up to 100%) (the sum of percentages listed is 5 + 5 + 4.5 + 3 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.2 = 19.7%), meaning the main component (water or base) is missing.
    • Please provide the complete 100% formula so the staff can review the mixing method and other ingredients correctly.

3. Moisturizing cream (for oily, acne-prone skin with large pores)

  • Goal: Whitening, slight moisture, non-sticky, powdery feel.
  • Ingredients listed: Satin Cream Maker 1%, MOIST24 4%, Trisiloxane 2%, PowderCream™ 3%, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 3%, WhiteCumin™ 3%, Full & Lift™ 5%, AcneBee™ 1.5%, Phenoxyethanol 1%.
  • Your proposed method: Full & Lift™ must be added in the final step in the cream base after heating the cream (50-60°C).
  • Staff Advice:
    • If you are a beginner, the staff recommends removing Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids from the formula first, as it is an electrolyte and can make mixing more difficult, potentially resulting in a thinner or softer cream texture.
    • For oily skin, the staff suggests adding more ingredients that help balance oil, such as Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3) 5% and Licorice Extract 1% (AcneBee™ is already included and helps with acne). This is optional if you wish to modify the formula.
    • The correct mixing method for this formula (using Satin Cream Maker) is:
      1. Mix the water phase ingredients together.
      2. Add Satin Cream Maker and mix until a cloudy gel forms.
      3. Mix the oil phase ingredients together and heat to approximately 60°C.
      4. Heat the water phase to a similar temperature (around 60°C).
      5. Slowly add the oil phase into the water phase while mixing until the cream forms.
    • Full & Lift™ should be added in the final step (Phase C) after the cream has formed and cooled down. You do not need to heat the cream before adding Full & Lift™.

Summary and Caution:

  • Formula 1 (Spray) cannot be made into a spray with the chosen emulsifier.
  • Formula 2 (Toner) is incomplete; please provide the full 100% formula.
  • Formula 3 (Cream) has recommendations for ingredient adjustments for beginners and oily skin, and the correct mixing method as advised by the staff.
  • Since some ingredients are expiring in March, it is recommended that you proceed with mixing and using the finished products soon.

I hope this information is helpful for making your products. If you have any further questions or wish to adjust the formulas, feel free to ask!