Review and Advice for Skin Brightening and Acne Prevention Serum Formulations

Question

I have developed two serum formulations and would like expert feedback on their feasibility, ingredient compatibility, recommended percentages, texture, stability, mixing procedure, and any potential issues or regulatory concerns.

Here are the formulations:

Skin Brightening Serum (for dry skin)
- Azelaic Acid 10%
- n-acetyl glucosamine 4%
- Vitamin B3 Niacinamide 2%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Fragrance 2%
- SiliSolve Plus
- Silky Serum Base
- Water (balance)
- I am aiming for a lightweight serum texture but am also open to a gel or cream texture if more suitable for dry skin.
Acne Prevention Serum (for combination/oily skin)
- Salicylic Acid EZ™ 20%
- White Egg Enzyme 5%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Fragrance 2%
- SiliSolve Plus
- Silky Serum Base
- Water (balance)
- I am particularly concerned about the concentration of Salicylic Acid EZ™ and the potential odor of White Egg Enzyme.

Please provide guidance on the optimal percentages for SiliSolve Plus, Silky Serum Base, and Water in both formulas, confirm if SiliSolve Plus is necessary, and suggest a suitable mixing procedure.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello Staff,

Thank you for reviewing the formulations. Based on the staff's feedback:

Skin Brightening Serum (for dry skin):

The formulation is feasible. For dry skin, a gel/cream might be more suitable, but a lightweight serum is possible.
To make a lightweight serum, remove SiliSolve Plus and adjust the percentages: Water 65%, Silky Serum Base 15%. Other ingredients (Azelaic Acid 10%, n-acetyl glucosamine 4%, Vitamin B3 Niacinamide 2%, Phenoxyethanol 1%, Fragrance 2%) remain the same.
Mixing: Mix all ingredients except Silky Serum Base with water. Gradually add the water mixture to Silky Serum Base while stirring continuously.
Alternatively, for a gel/cream, replace Silky Serum Base with a gel-forming agent (like Pro Polymer Silk) or add an emollient (like LipidSoft™ Lite 5%) for a cream texture.

Acne Prevention Serum (for combination/oily skin):

The formulation is feasible.
Salicylic Acid EZ™: The concentration must be reduced to a maximum of 10% to comply with regulations (equivalent to 2% active Salicylic Acid).
White Egg Enzyme: 5% might have a strong odor. It's recommended to start with 1-2% and adjust.
SiliSolve Plus: Not needed in this formula.
Silky Serum Base: Adjust the percentage (e.g., reduce to 15%) to achieve the desired thickness. More water relative to Silky Serum Base results in a thicker serum.

Thank you again for the helpful advice!