Review and Compatibility Check for Multiple Formulas

Asked by: restnpeace.th On: August 17, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Hello, could the team please review and check the compatibility of the following formulas?

Formula 1: Light Serum for Acne-Prone Skin
Rose Water (Rosa Damascena) 65%
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%
Salix Alba Bark Extract 5%
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 5%
L-Carnitine (Carnitine) 2%
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation) 2%
MOIST24 5%
VersaMoist™ (PEG/​PPG-14/​7 Dimethyl Ether) 1.5%
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 1%
Hydroxyacetophenone 1%
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 0.5%
Acacia Senegal Gum 0.6%
Xanthan Gum 0.5%
Allantoin 0.5%
Disodium EDTA 0.2%
Sodium Metabisulfite 0.2%
* Is 0.6% Acacia Senegal Gum and 0.5% Xanthan Gum sufficient to create a light liquid gel texture? What will the approximate pH of this formula be?

Formula 2: Soothing Essence
Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin 50%
DI Water 20%
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 5%
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract) 4%
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 3%
Plankton Artemia Extract 2%
Mineral Ready™ (Mn+Zn+Cu) 2%
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 3%
Orange Peel Extract 3%
VersaMoist™ (PEG/​PPG-14/​7 Dimethyl Ether) 2%
Hydroxyacetophenone 1%
Disodium EDTA 0.2%
Sodium Metabisulfite 0.2%
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 0.6%
* Is the formula too liquid for an Essence?

Formula 3: Peptide Anti Aging
DI Water 70%
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline) 10%
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) 5%
beta glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract) 3%
Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (1000ppm Solution) 3%
MOIST24 3%
VersaMoist™ (PEG/​PPG-14/​7 Dimethyl Ether) 2%
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 2%
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) 1%
Acacia Senegal Gum 0.5%
Xanthan Gum 0.5%
* Can this formula be mixed? Should any additional ingredients be added?

All formulas are intended to have a lightweight texture for normal to oily skin.

Thank you.

Answer

Formula Review and Compatibility Check

Hello! The team has reviewed all three formulas you submitted. Here is the information:

Formula 1: Light Serum for Acne-Prone Skin

  • Compatibility: Most ingredients are generally compatible. However, this formula uses Azelaic Acid and Salix Alba Bark Extract (containing Natural Salicylic Acid), which are acidic ingredients, together with Niacinamide (Safe-B3™). Niacinamide is most stable in the pH range of 5-6, while Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid work well in an acidic environment (pH below 5). This combination might result in a relatively low pH for the formula, which could affect the long-term stability of Niacinamide. It is recommended to check the pH of the final formula.
  • Gel Texture: Using 0.6% Acacia Senegal Gum and 0.5% Xanthan Gum, totaling 1.1%, is sufficient to increase the viscosity of the water-based formula, resulting in a light liquid gel or light serum texture as desired.
  • Approximate pH: Due to the presence of Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid, the pH of this formula will be quite acidic. It is expected to be in the range of approximately 4-5, which is suitable for the function of Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid. However, as mentioned, this might be lower than the optimal stability range for Niacinamide. It is recommended to measure the actual pH of the resulting formula.

Formula 2: Soothing Essence

  • Compatibility: Most ingredients in this formula are highly water-soluble and generally compatible. There are no prominent compatibility restrictions among the ingredients in this formula.
  • Texture: This formula does not use significant amounts of gelling agents or thickeners. The texture will be watery or similar to a toner. For some types of Essence, a light liquid texture is common. If you prefer a slightly more viscous texture to feel more like an Essence, you might consider adding a small amount of a gelling agent, such as Xanthan Gum or other suitable water-phase thickeners, at a concentration of 0.1-0.3%.

Formula 3: Peptide Anti Aging

  • Compatibility: Most ingredients are generally compatible. However, this formula contains Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) along with 0.2% Disodium EDTA. EDTA is a chelating agent that can bind to metal ions, including copper in Copper Peptide. Using EDTA with Copper Peptide might affect the efficacy or stability of the Copper Peptide, depending on the concentration and specific types of ingredients used. It is highly recommended to check the compatibility information from the supplier of the Copper Peptide you are using to see if it can be used with Disodium EDTA at this concentration.
  • Should any ingredients be added?: This formula already contains a variety of key anti-aging peptides, as well as moisturizing and soothing ingredients, making it a good and comprehensive formula on its own. Adding other ingredients depends on specific additional goals. For example, if you want to enhance antioxidant benefits, you might consider other antioxidants compatible with Copper Peptide (e.g., Vitamin E Tocopheryl Acetate, Ferulic Acid - but compatibility and pH must be checked again). Or if you want to strengthen the skin barrier, you might consider Ceramides or Cholesterol. However, overall, the current formula is already good. The most important thing is to check the compatibility between Copper Peptide and Disodium EDTA.

Hope this information is helpful. If you have any further questions or wish to adjust the formulas, feel free to ask!