Review and Correction of Homemade Under-Eye and Face Gel Formulations
Question
I have attempted to formulate two cosmetic products and would like to request a review of my formulations and mixing steps. The batch size for both is 10g.
1. Under-Eye Formula (10g batch)
- Liquid beta-glucan 10%
- Distilled Water (balance)
- Xanthan Gum 0.5%
- Disodium EDTA 0.2%
- Mild Preserved Eco 0.3%
- Alpha Arbutin 0.1%
- Mixing steps: Hydrate Xanthan Gum, add other ingredients.
2. Face Gel Formula (10g batch)
- Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin 50%
- Distilled Water (balance)
- Xanthan Gum 0.5%
- Disodium EDTA 0.2%
- Mild Preserved Eco 0.3%
- Licorice extract 0.1%
- Alpha Arbutin 10%
- Azelaic acid 10%
- Mixing steps: Hydrate Xanthan Gum, add Alpha Arbutin last.
Please review the ingredient percentages, calculated amounts for a 10g batch, mixing steps, and overall ingredient appropriateness for a budget formulation targeting brightening, pores, oil control, redness, and freckles.
Answer
Okay, I can review your formulations and steps based on the previous discussion. It's great that you've taken the feedback and are trying to formulate your own products!
Here is a review of your two formulations and mixing steps:
Review of Formulations and Steps
1. Under-Eye Formula (10g batch)
- Ingredients and Percentages: The ingredients chosen are appropriate for targeting under-eye concerns.
- Calculated Amounts (10g batch):
- Your calculation for Liquid beta-glucan (0.1ml for 10%) is incorrect. 10% of 10g is 1g or approximately 1ml. This amount needs to be corrected.
- The amount of Distilled Water needs to be recalculated based on the corrected amount of beta-glucan. If beta-glucan is 1ml, the water needed is 10 - (0.5 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 1 + 0.1) = 7.9ml.
- Mixing Steps: The steps you described for hydrating Xanthan Gum are generally correct for forming a gel.
- Ingredient Appropriateness (Budget): The ingredients are relevant actives for the purpose.
2. Face Gel Formula (10g batch)
- Ingredients and Percentages: The ingredients are relevant to the stated goals (brightening, pores, oil, redness, freckles).
- Calculated Amounts (10g batch):
- Your calculation for Azelaic acid (1ml for 10%) is questionable. If Azelaic Acid is a powder, 10% of 10g is 1g, not 1ml. Assuming it's a powder, this amount needs correction to 1g.
- The amount of Distilled Water needs recalculation based on the corrected Azelaic Acid amount and potentially a reduced Witch Hazel percentage.
- The percentage of Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin at 50% is very high. You should check the supplier's recommended usage rate for this specific product. Using such a high percentage might be unnecessary, costly, or potentially irritating.
- Mixing Steps: The steps for hydrating Xanthan Gum are generally correct. Adding Alpha Arbutin last is acceptable.
- Important Note: Incorporating Azelaic Acid at 10%, especially if it's a powder, often requires specific methods (like pre-dispersing or heating) which are not mentioned. Check your supplier's instructions.
- Ingredient Appropriateness (Budget):
- As previously mentioned by the staff, the specific Licorice extract you have might be for oil control/anti-inflammation, not whitening. If whitening is a key goal, you might need a different type of licorice extract or another whitening ingredient.
- The high percentage of Witch Hazel + Allantoin is a concern regarding cost and potential irritation. Check the recommended usage rate and consider reducing it.
- The combination of multiple strong actives increases the potential for skin irritation.
General Advice:
- Accuracy with Small Batches: Making very small batches (like 10g) makes accurate measurement of tiny amounts (0.1g, 0.1ml) very difficult. Consider making a slightly larger batch (e.g., 50g or 100g) to improve accuracy.
- Check Supplier Information: Always check the recommended usage rate and specific properties of each ingredient from your supplier.
- Patch Testing: Always perform a patch test before applying any new formulation to your face or under-eye area.
You are doing a great job researching and attempting to formulate! Just pay close attention to the calculations for percentages to grams/ml and check the specific properties and recommended usage rates of your ingredients from the supplier.