Review of Your Cosmetic Formulations

Based on your questions and the feedback provided in the forum thread, here is a review of the cosmetic formulations you've presented:

Original BHA Toner Formula

Your initial formula aimed to create a BHA toner with added moisture and soothing properties for normal to combination skin. The ingredients were:

• Water 46.1%
• Ethoxydiglycol 20%
• Butylene Glycol 20%
• Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 6.6%
• Polysorbate-20 3%
• Green Tea 3%
• HA Nano 0.5%
• HA Standard 0.5%
• Disodium EDTA 0.2%
• Allantoin 0.1%

Feedback:

• Ingredient Compatibility: As noted by the staff in the forum, Hyaluronic Acid (HA Nano and HA Standard) is not compatible with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Timed Release BHA). These ingredients should not be used together in this formulation.
• Glycol Concentration: The percentages of Ethoxydiglycol (20%) and Butylene Glycol (20%) are very high for a toner. While they can aid penetration, Timed Release BHA is already designed for good delivery. High concentrations of these glycols can cause a warming sensation on the skin. The staff recommended reducing the total glycol content significantly, ideally below 5%, and replacing the volume with water.
• pH Adjustment: You asked about using Sodium Hydroxide or Citric Acid to adjust pH. This is the correct method if adjustment is needed. However, the staff indicated that the formula's pH would likely be around 4, and minor deviations (within 0.5 pH units) don't require adjustment for personal use. For commercial products, checking and adjusting pH below 3.5 might be necessary for regulatory compliance.
• Intended Benefits: Your understanding of Green Tea and Allantoin providing soothing, anti-inflammatory, and tissue repair benefits is correct.

Conclusion for Original Formula: This formula has compatibility issues with the hyaluronic acids and uses excessively high concentrations of glycols, which could lead to undesirable skin feel and potential irritation.

Revised BHA Toner Formula

Your revised formula focuses on exfoliation and acne treatment, separating the moisturizing aspect. The ingredients are:

• Water 29.7%
• Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) 20%
• Butylene Glycol 40%
• Polysorbate-20 3%
• Salicylic Acid (BHA) 2%
• Green Tea 5%
• Disodium EDTA 0.2%
• Allantoin 0.1%

Feedback:

• Salicylic Acid: Switching to standard Salicylic Acid is appropriate and compatible with the other ingredients, including the glycols and Polysorbate 20, which help dissolve it.
• Witch Hazel: Using Witch Hazel is suitable for a toner and can be mixed with or partially replace water. It adds astringent and soothing properties. Combining it with Salicylic Acid will result in an acidic pH.
• pH and Adjustment: You are correct that you should check the pH after mixing. The optimal pH range for Salicylic Acid's effectiveness and tolerance is typically 3-4. You can use Sodium Hydroxide or Citric Acid to adjust the pH to this range if necessary.
• Butylene Glycol Concentration: While Butylene Glycol is milder than Propylene Glycol, a concentration of 40% is still quite high for a toner. As mentioned by the staff (C7), this high percentage can lead to a sticky feeling on the skin. Reducing the concentration would improve the texture. Your idea of using 30% Butylene Glycol and 10% Ethoxydiglycol still results in a high total glycol content (40%) and Ethoxydiglycol can cause a warming sensation. Consider reducing the total glycol percentage for better skin feel, even if it means slightly less solvent power.
• Green Tea and Allantoin: These ingredients continue to provide beneficial soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.

Conclusion for Revised Formula: This formula is more chemically sound than the first. The main consideration is the high level of Butylene Glycol, which may make the toner feel sticky. Adjusting the pH to the effective range for BHA is recommended.

Moisturizing Gel Formula

Your moisturizing gel formula includes:

• Water 83.3%
• Calendula Extract 5%
• Aloe Vera Extract 3%
• Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
• Vitamin B3 2%
• N-Acetyl-D glucosamine 4%
• Pro Polymer 0.5%
• Disodium EDTA 0.2%

Your proposed mixing method involved three parts.

Feedback:

• Mixing Method: As confirmed by the staff (C7), all ingredients except Pro Polymer are water-soluble. You can simplify the mixing process by combining all water-soluble ingredients together in one phase. Add the Pro Polymer last and mix until the desired gel consistency is achieved. You can add slightly more Pro Polymer if a thicker gel is desired.
• Ingredient Suitability: The ingredients are suitable for a moisturizing gel focused on hydration, soothing (Calendula, Aloe Vera), and potentially skin tone improvement (Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-D glucosamine). Double Hyaluron Liquid provides multiple molecular weights of hyaluronic acid for different hydration benefits.

Conclusion for Moisturizing Gel: The formula is suitable. The mixing method can be simplified by combining all water-soluble ingredients before adding the gel maker.

Sunscreen Formula

Your sunscreen formula includes:

• Water 70.5%
• SPF Protect Ultra 15%
• Luxury Cream Maker 1.5%
• Cyclomethicone 10%
• SiliSolve 1%
• Mild Preserved 1%
• Butylene Glycol 1%

Feedback:

• Emulsification: The staff (C7) confirmed that Luxury Cream Maker at 1.5% is capable of emulsifying both the silicone (Cyclomethicone) and the preservative (Mild Preserved).
• Unnecessary Ingredients: Therefore, SiliSolve (intended to emulsify silicone) and Butylene Glycol (intended to dissolve the preservative) are not necessary in this formula at these concentrations when using Luxury Cream Maker.
• Formula Viability: The core formula using SPF Protect Ultra, Luxury Cream Maker, Cyclomethicone, and Mild Preserved is viable for creating a sunscreen.

Conclusion for Sunscreen: The formula is viable, but you can simplify it and potentially improve the feel by omitting SiliSolve and Butylene Glycol, as the chosen emulsifier is sufficient.

It's great that you are experimenting and refining your formulas based on feedback! Always test small batches to evaluate the texture, stability, and skin feel before making larger quantities.