Review of Your Anti-Aging and Brightening Formula

Based on your formula and skin concerns (dryness, occasional acne, dullness, wrinkles), the ingredients you have chosen are well-suited to address these issues. You have included a range of actives targeting different aspects of skin health and appearance.

Your formula contains:

• Peptides (Matrixyl 3000, Argireline): To help reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
• Brightening Agents (Alpha Arbutin, Niacinamide, N-acetyl Glucosamine): To improve skin clarity and even tone. Niacinamide also supports the skin barrier and helps with oil balance.
• Hydrators/Moisturizers (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Shea Butter, Hyaluronic Acid, WaterLock, Allantoin): To provide essential moisture and soothe dry skin.
• Soothing/Balancing (Licochalcone A, Witch Hazel): To calm irritation and help with occasional breakouts.
• Emulsifier (Light Cream Maker): To create the desired cream texture.

Your method is generally correct for creating a cream, but there are a couple of points to consider, as highlighted by the feedback you received:

1. Allantoin Solubility: The feedback about Allantoin solubility is accurate. Allantoin has limited solubility in water (around 0.5% at room temperature). Your formula uses 0.5% Allantoin with only 19.4% water, meaning not all of the Allantoin will dissolve. To ensure it fully dissolves and is effective, you should reduce the Allantoin concentration to approximately 0.09-0.1% of the total formula, based on the amount of water present.
2. Hyaluronic Acid Dissolution: Your method of dissolving Hyaluronic Acid (HA) powder by shaking and refrigerating is correct. However, dissolving the HA in the total water amount first, before adding other ingredients, is often easier and ensures complete hydration without lumps. This aligns with the suggestion you received.
3. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate: Please double-check your formula steps (B and C) as you listed Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (ingredient 7) in both steps. It should typically be added only once in the water phase.

Suggested Revised Method:

To address the solubility issue and simplify the process, consider this revised method:

• Pre-Step (Hyaluronic Acid): Combine the total amount of water (19.4%) with the Hyaluronic Acid powder (0.1%). Shake vigorously and refrigerate until the powder is completely dissolved into a clear gel. Shake again if necessary.
• Step A (Water Phase 1): Take a small portion of the HA/water solution from the Pre-Step. Add the corrected amount of Allantoin (approx. 0.09-0.1%) and stir until dissolved. Then add the rest of the HA/water solution.
• Step B (Water Phase 2): Add Alpha Arbutin (2%), Sesaflash (3%), Matrixyl 3000 (8%), Argireline (10%), Niacinamide (4%), N-acetyl Glucosamine (4%), Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (25%), WaterLock (2%), Licochalcone A (0.5%), and Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) (15%) to the mixture from Step A. Mix well until all water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved.
• Step C (Oil Phase): Gently warm the Shea Butter (Ultra Soft) (5%) until melted. Add the Light Cream Maker (1.5%) and stir to combine.
• Step D (Emulsification): Slowly add the oil phase from Step C into the water phase from Step B while continuously stirring or blending until a smooth, uniform cream is formed.

By making these small adjustments, you should achieve a stable and effective cream formulation targeting your skin concerns.