Review and Questions on Skin Brightening Cream and Lotion Formulas

ถามโดย: atipkrairit เมื่อ: July 04, 2013 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have developed formulas for a Day Cream, Night Cream, and Body Lotion aimed at skin brightening. I would like to ask for a review and clarification on the following points:

Day Cream Formula:

  • Alpha Arbutin
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • N-acetyl-glucosamine
  • Shea Butter
  • Sea Kelp Bioferment
  • Green Tea Extract
  • Oil Free Titanium Dioxide Nano 15%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA)

Night Cream Formula:

  • Alpha Arbutin
  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic)
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • N-acetyl-glucosamine
  • Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
  • Rose Hip Oil
  • Safflower Seed Oil
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA)

Body Lotion Formula:

  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic)
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • N-acetyl-glucosamine
  • Bisabolol
  • Vitamin B5 (Panthenol)
  • Grape Seed Oil
  • Oil Free Titanium Dioxide Nano 15%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA)

My specific questions are:

  1. Will using all three products (Day Cream, Night Cream, Body Lotion) regularly speed up the skin whitening process?
  2. Is 1% Light Cream Maker sufficient for the cream formulas to achieve a thick but non-sticky texture, as my friend prefers a richer texture?
  3. Do the ingredients in these formulas require heat during the mixing process?
  4. Is it necessary to adjust the pH for these formulas?

คำตอบ

Formula Review and Feedback

Using a combination of products with effective whitening ingredients consistently can definitely help improve skin brightness and reduce dark spots over time. The revised formulas contain several well-known ingredients for this purpose.

Day Cream

The revised day cream formula looks good for daytime use. Removing Azelaic Acid is appropriate as it can increase sensitivity to the sun. The combination of Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), and N-acetyl-glucosamine is a powerful blend for skin brightening and improving skin tone. Vitamin B3 and N-acetyl-glucosamine are known to work synergistically for whitening.

Reducing the amounts of Shea Butter and Sea Kelp Bioferment should help create a lighter texture, which is generally preferred for a day cream. Green Tea Extract provides antioxidant benefits. The inclusion of Oil Free Titanium Dioxide Nano at 15% is excellent for providing sun protection, which is crucial when using whitening agents to prevent further pigmentation and allow the ingredients to work effectively.

Night Cream

The revised night cream formula is also well-formulated for nighttime skin renewal and brightening. Moving Azelaic Acid to the night cream is correct. The combination of Alpha Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B3, N-acetyl-glucosamine, and Vitamin E provides a comprehensive approach to targeting pigmentation, improving skin texture, and providing antioxidant protection while you sleep.

The oil content (Rose Hip Oil and Safflower Seed Oil) is higher than in the day cream, which is suitable for a richer night cream texture.

Body Lotion

The revised body lotion formula is suitable for use both day and night, provided the Azelaic Acid is removed for daytime application as previously advised. The combination of Vitamin B3, N-acetyl-glucosamine, Bisabolol, Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), and Grape Seed Oil is beneficial for body skin, offering brightening, soothing, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties.

Including Oil Free Titanium Dioxide Nano at 15% in the body lotion is great for providing sun protection to the body during the day.

Specific Questions

  • Will using all three products regularly speed up whitening?
    Yes, consistently using these formulas containing multiple effective whitening ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3, Azelaic Acid, and N-acetyl-glucosamine, along with sun protection from Titanium Dioxide, should help improve skin brightness and reduce dark spots faster than using products with fewer or less potent ingredients. Consistency is key.

  • Is 1% Light Cream Maker enough for a thick but non-sticky texture?
    Light Cream Maker is an effective emulsifier and thickener that works without heat. The usage rate is typically 0.5-3%, with 1-1.5% often recommended. However, achieving a "thick but not sticky" texture can be subjective and depends on the total oil content and other ingredients (like electrolytes, which are present in your formulas, e.g., Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid). The product description for Light Cream Maker mentions that if the formula contains electrolytes, you might need to use a higher percentage (e.g., 2-3%) to achieve the desired thickness. At 1%, the creams might be lighter than your friend prefers. It's best to start with 1% and increase it gradually in small test batches if a thicker consistency is desired, while being mindful that too much can make the product too thick to dispense or feel heavy.

  • Do the ingredients require heat during mixing?
    Light Cream Maker itself works without heat. However, ingredients like Shea Butter need to be heated to melt and incorporate into the oil phase, typically around 60-70°C. Some ingredients, like Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic), Green Tea Extract, Sea Kelp Extract, Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol), and Phenoxyethanol SA, are sensitive to high temperatures and should be added in the final step after the mixture has cooled, ideally below 40-60°C depending on the specific ingredient. So, while you don't need prolonged high heat, you will likely need to gently heat the oil phase to melt the Shea Butter, then cool it down before adding the heat-sensitive active ingredients and the Light Cream Maker.

  • Must pH be adjusted?
    Yes, pH adjustment is likely necessary and important for the stability and effectiveness of the active ingredients. Many ingredients have optimal pH ranges for stability and efficacy:

    • Alpha Arbutin: pH 3.5-6.5 (degrades above pH 8)
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): pH 3-8 (best at 4-7)
    • N-acetyl-glucosamine: pH 3-7
    • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic): pH 5-11
    • Light Cream Maker: pH 2.5-11
    • Phenoxyethanol: pH 2-9
    • Phenoxyethanol SA: pH 2-6

    The combination of Azelaic Acid (optimal pH 5-11) and Alpha Arbutin (optimal pH 3.5-6.5) in the night cream requires careful pH balancing. A pH in the range of 5.0-6.0 would likely be suitable for most ingredients in your formulas, ensuring both efficacy and stability. You should measure the pH of the final product and adjust it if necessary using a suitable pH adjuster.

Overall, the revised formulas are well-designed for targeting skin brightening. Pay attention to the mixing process regarding heat and ensure pH adjustment for optimal results. Experimenting with the Light Cream Maker concentration will help achieve the desired texture.

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