Review and Recommendations for Skincare Spray Formulations
Asked by: nuttiizearp
On: July 11, 2017
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I would like a review and recommendations for the following two proposed skincare spray formulations:
Formula 1: For Combination to Dry/Very Dry Skin
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 1.78%
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 1.78%
- Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™) 0.89 %
- Ectoine (Ectoin) 1.18%
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA) 2.97%
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 1.18%
- Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™) 4.75%
- Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin 29.72%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 2.97%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 2.37%
- Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) 1.48%
- Tomato Extract (Lycopene) 1.78%
- รางจืด 0.59%
- Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 0.71%
- Hydroxypropyl Beta Cyclodextrin 0.59%
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 0.59%
- น้ำกลั่นบริสุทธิ์ 44.67%
Formula 2: For Combination to Oily/Very Oily Skin
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 1.78%
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) 1.78%
- Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™) 0.89 %
- Ectoine (Ectoin) 1.18%
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA) 2.97%
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 1.18%
- Methylsulfonylmethane (Pure MSM™) 2.37%
- Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin 29.72%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 2.97%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 2.37%
- Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) 1.48%
- Tomato Extract (Lycopene) 1.78%
- รางจืด 0.59%
- Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) 0.71%
- Hydroxypropyl Beta Cyclodextrin 0.59%
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 0.59%
- น้ำกลั่นบริสุทธิ์ 47.05%
Answer
Formula Review and Recommendations
Thank you for sharing your proposed facial spray formulations! It's ambitious to create a single product addressing so many concerns, which is a great goal.
Based on your formulas and the expert feedback, here are some points to consider and recommendations for adjustment:
General Feedback for Both Formulas
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid: The expert suggests this is better suited for rinse-off applications (like a toner you wash off after a short time) rather than a leave-on spray.
- Hydroxypropyl Beta Cyclodextrin: Using this in your spray formula is not recommended by the expert, as it might interfere with the absorption of other active ingredients.
- Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus): The concentration of 0.59% is likely too low for effective preservation. The expert recommends using it at 1.0% to ensure the product remains stable and safe from microbial growth.
- Rang Jued: While included in your formula, a specific product for "Rang Jued" extract was not found in the database. Please verify the correct product name and availability.
Feedback Specific to the Dry Skin Formula
- The expert notes that this formula, being primarily water-based, may not provide sufficient hydration and lipid replenishment for dry to very dry skin. Dry skin typically benefits significantly from emollients and oils, which are not present in this spray format.
Feedback Specific to the Oily Skin Formula
- This formula is considered more suitable for oily skin. However, the inclusion of Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) is a concern for stability in a spray. Phospholipids usually require a cream maker to stay dispersed.
- For a stable spray formulation, the expert recommends removing the Phospholipid and adding Ethoxydiglycol (3%) and Flora Solve Clear (1%). This combination can help with absorption and improve the spray's feel on the skin.
Considerations for All Skin Types (Including Sensitive/Acne-Prone)
- Including a large number of active ingredients, while aiming for comprehensive benefits, increases the potential for irritation or sensitivity, especially for sensitive and acne-prone skin. It is highly recommended to perform a patch test before applying the product to the entire face.
- Achieving all the desired benefits (anti-aging, whitening, acne treatment, soothing, hydration, oil control) effectively in a single spray product suitable for all skin types is very challenging. You might consider developing more targeted formulas or adjusting the base significantly for different skin needs.
Recommended Adjustments Summary:
- Increase Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) to 1.0% in both formulas.
- Reconsider or remove Encapsulated Salicylic Acid and Hydroxypropyl Beta Cyclodextrin based on expert advice.
- For the oily skin spray, remove Phospholipid and add Ethoxydiglycol (3%) and Flora Solve Clear (1%).
- For dry skin, consider if a spray format can truly meet the hydration needs or if a different product type (like a serum or cream) would be more effective.
- Verify the correct product for "Rang Jued".
- Be mindful of the total number of active ingredients, especially for sensitive skin, and always patch test.
I hope this detailed feedback helps you refine your formulations!
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Cosmetics
Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream)
Cosmetics
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Cosmetics
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Cosmetics
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Cosmetics
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Cosmetics
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
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Hydroxypropyl Beta Cyclodextrin
Cosmetics
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
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Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
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Phospholipid
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Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Cosmetics