Review and Usage of Two Skincare Formulas

Asked by: jelektip On: September 18, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please review the ingredients in the following two formulas? Can both formulas be mixed together? Are there any redundant ingredients that should be removed, or anything that should be added? Also, what is the correct application order for these two formulas?

Formula 1:

  1. Squalane (Olive) 93.3%
  2. Perfect-C 5%
  3. Retinal A 0.1%
  4. Protect UV 0.1%
  5. Active Protect OX 1%
  6. Co Q10 0.5%

Formula 2:

  1. Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) 87%
  2. beta glucan 5%
  3. Olive Extract 5%
  4. Madecassoside 80 1%
  5. Plankton 2%

Answer

Formulation Review

Formula 1 Analysis

This formula is primarily oil-based, with Squalane as the main ingredient. It contains a mix of oil-soluble and water-dispersible/soluble active ingredients and stabilizers.

  • Compatibility:

    • Squalane is compatible with oil-soluble ingredients like Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) and Protec UV.
    • Retinal-EZ (Encapsulated Retinaldehyde) is water-dispersible, and Coenzyme Q10 (Water-Soluble) is water-soluble. Including these in a high-oil base like Squalane (93.3%) may lead to dispersion issues, potentially affecting the homogeneity and stability of the product. They may not fully dissolve or disperse evenly without an emulsifier, although adding an emulsifier would change the nature of the formula from a simple oil serum.
    • ActiveProtec OX is water-soluble, which could also pose dispersion challenges in this oil-dominant formula.
  • Redundancy: The active ingredients Perfect-C, Retinal-EZ, and Coenzyme Q10 have different primary functions (brightening/antioxidant, anti-aging/wrinkle reduction, antioxidant/photo-aging protection, respectively) and are not considered redundant. Protec UV and ActiveProtec OX are stabilizers protecting against different types of degradation (UV light and oxidation).

  • Potential Additions:

    • To improve the stability of Retinal-EZ and Coenzyme Q10 in this oil base, ensuring proper dispersion is key.
    • The description for Retinal-EZ suggests using Protec OX, Protec UV, and potentially Protec SQ or Bakuchiol for stability. Adding Bakuchiol could offer additional benefits and help stabilize Retinal.
    • The description for Coenzyme Q10 specifically recommends ActiveProtec UV and ActiveProtec OX for stability. While ActiveProtec OX is included, ActiveProtec UV is not (Protec UV is different). Consider adding ActiveProtec UV for better CoQ10 stability.

Formula 2 Analysis

This formula is water-based, using Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) as the base. It contains several water-soluble or water-dispersible active ingredients known for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties.

  • Compatibility:

    • Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) is a suitable water-based vehicle for the other ingredients.
    • Beta Glucan, Olive Extract, Madecassoside (Centella Asiatica Extract), and Marine Plankton are all compatible with a water base and can be dispersed or dissolved as per their descriptions.
    • Ensure the final pH of the formula is within the recommended range for the actives (ideally between 4.0 and 6.5) for optimal stability and efficacy.
  • Redundancy: The ingredients in Formula 2 provide complementary benefits (soothing, hydration, anti-inflammation, antioxidant, lifting, tightening) and are not significantly redundant.

  • Potential Additions: The formula is well-rounded for soothing and anti-aging benefits. Additional humectants could be considered for enhanced hydration, but check compatibility with the Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base (e.g., Hyaluronic Acid is listed as incompatible). The Aloe Vera Gel (Lite) base already contains a preservative (Phenoxyethanol), which should be sufficient for the formula.

Can Both Formulas Be Mixed?

These two formulas are designed with different bases: Formula 1 is primarily oil-based, and Formula 2 is water-based. They are not intended to be mixed together into a single product. However, they can be used together as part of a skincare routine by layering them.

Application Order

For optimal absorption, water-based products are typically applied before oil-based products. Therefore, you should apply Formula 2 (Aloe Vera Gel based) first, allowing it to absorb, and then follow with Formula 1 (Squalane based).

In summary:

  • Both formulas can be made, but Formula 1 might face stability/dispersion challenges with its water-soluble/dispersible components in a high-oil base.
  • There is no significant redundancy in the key active ingredients across the two formulas.
  • Consider adding Bakuchiol or Protec SQ to Formula 1 for enhanced Retinal stability, and potentially ActiveProtec UV for CoQ10 stability. Ensure the pH of Formula 2 is within the optimal range for the actives.
  • Apply Formula 2 first, followed by Formula 1.