Review of 3 Cosmetic Formulations: Whitening, Melasma, and Acne Creams

ถามโดย: chetsoi.cs เมื่อ: January 27, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have developed three cosmetic formulations for different skin concerns and would like feedback on them. I also have a question regarding the smell and measurement of Tea Tree Oil.

My initial questions were:

  • Regarding [Product Name: Tea Tree Oil], it has its own natural smell. Can this be adjusted? If the smell is too strong, should I reduce the percentage?
  • I tried making 100 grams by adding [Product Name: Tea Tree Oil] 2 ml and water 98 ml. Is this correct?

Here are my three formulations:

1. Whitening, Brightening, Anti-Wrinkle, and Moisturizing Cream

  • Horse Oil (extracted/purified thick cream) 5 %
  • Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) 8%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Aloe Vera Extract 3%
  • Water to 100%

2. Melasma and Freckle Treatment Cream

  • Trans-White (Tranexamic Acid) (China) 3%
  • Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10%
  • MSH White Absorb 4 %
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) 8%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Water to 100%

3. Acne Treatment Cream for Oily, Clogged, and Inflamed Acne

  • Licorice Extract 1%
  • Salicylic Acid EZ 10%
  • Pure MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane) 3%
  • Zinc PCA 1%
  • Tea Tree Oil 2%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Light Cream Maker 1 %
  • Water to 100%

Could you please review these formulations and provide feedback on ingredient compatibility, expected results, and any necessary adjustments?

คำตอบ

Formulation Review

It's great that you are developing formulations to address different skin concerns! Here is a review of your three proposed formulas:

1. Whitening, Brightening, Anti-Wrinkle, and Moisturizing Cream

Your formula includes:

  • Horse Oil (extracted/purified thick cream) 5 %
  • Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) 8%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Aloe Vera Extract 3%
  • Water to 100%

Compatibility and Expected Results:
The ingredients in this formula are generally compatible. Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) are known to work well together for whitening and improving skin texture. Horse Oil and Aloe Vera Extract provide moisturizing and soothing benefits. Mild Preserved Eco is a suitable preservative. Light Cream Maker is used as an emulsifier and thickener.

Important Note: Based on the product information, the maximum recommended usage rate for GlucoBright is 8%, but it is recommended to use 4% in combination with Niacinamide. While 8% might be within the technical limit, using it at 4% alongside Niacinamide (Safe-B3) at 2-4% is the recommended combination for optimal whitening efficacy according to research. Using higher concentrations than recommended might not increase efficacy and could potentially lead to issues.

The combination of Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Horse Oil, and Aloe Vera Extract should contribute to skin brightening, improved moisture, and potentially some reduction in the appearance of wrinkles.

2. Melasma and Freckle Treatment Cream

Your formula includes:

  • Trans-White (Tranexamic Acid) (China) 3%
  • Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 10%
  • MSH White Absorb 4 %
  • GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine) 8%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Water to 100%

Compatibility and Expected Results:
This formula targets melasma and freckles with a combination of potent whitening ingredients. Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White), Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), MSH White Absorb, and GlucoBright are all known for their effects on pigmentation. Mild Preserved Eco is suitable for preservation, and Light Cream Maker for emulsification.

Important Notes:

  • The maximum permitted usage rate for Tranexamic Acid in cosmetics is 3%. Your formula uses the maximum allowed concentration, which is appropriate for targeting stubborn pigmentation like melasma. Using over 3% would require registration as a drug.
  • As mentioned for the first formula, the recommended usage rate for GlucoBright in combination with Niacinamide is 4%. While 8% is within the product's maximum usage rate, reducing it to 4% might still provide effective results when combined with the other strong whitening agents in this formula.
  • MSH White Absorb works synergistically with other whitening agents like Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright) to enhance overall whitening efficacy.

This combination of ingredients is well-suited for addressing melasma and freckles and should yield noticeable brightening results.

3. Acne Treatment Cream for Oily, Clogged, and Inflamed Acne

Your formula includes:

  • Licorice Extract 1%
  • Salicylic Acid EZ 10%
  • Pure MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane) 3%
  • Zinc PCA 1%
  • Tea Tree Oil 2%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Light Cream Maker 1 %
  • Water to 100%

Compatibility and Expected Results:
This formula contains several ingredients known for their anti-acne and oil-controlling properties. Licorice Extract can help with soothing, Salicylic Acid EZ (which provides 2% active Salicylic Acid at 10% concentration) is effective for exfoliation and unclogging pores, Pure MSM helps control oil, Zinc PCA reduces oiliness and aids healing, and Tea Tree Oil has antibacterial properties. Mild Preserved Eco is suitable for preservation.

Important Notes and Recommendations:

  • Thickening Agent Compatibility: As previously advised, Light Cream Maker is not compatible with Zinc PCA due to the electrolyte content of Zinc PCA. Using Light Cream Maker will cause the formula to thin or separate over time. You should replace Light Cream Maker with an electrolyte-tolerant gelling agent such as Pro Polymer or AnyGel at the recommended usage rate (typically 1-1.4% for a gel texture, adjust as needed).
  • Adding Creaminess: If you desire a creamier, white texture after forming the gel with Pro Polymer or AnyGel, you can add a small amount of Light Cream Maker after the gel structure has fully formed. However, the primary thickening/emulsifying system should be electrolyte-tolerant to maintain stability.
  • Tea Tree Oil Smell: Tea Tree Oil has a naturally strong scent that cannot be eliminated. If the smell is too strong at 2%, you should reduce the concentration. For facial products, the recommended maximum usage rate for Tea Tree Oil (Extra Grade) is 0.5%. Using Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble) might also be an option, with a recommended facial usage rate of no more than 2%.
  • Ingredient Measurement: Remember to always measure ingredients by weight, not volume, for accurate formulation.

Overall, your formulations show a good understanding of active ingredients for different skin concerns. Pay close attention to the recommended usage rates and compatibility notes, especially regarding the gelling agent in your acne formula, to ensure stability and safety.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Light Cream Maker™
Light Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
Tea Tree Oil (Extra Grade)
Tea Tree Oil (Extra Grade)
Fragrance/Flavor
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
เครื่องสำอาง
Zinc PCA
Zinc PCA
เครื่องสำอาง
Trans-White™
Trans-White™
เครื่องสำอาง
MSH White Absorb™
MSH White Absorb™
เครื่องสำอาง
Horse Oil (extracted/purified thick cream)
Horse Oil (extracted/purified thick cream)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
AnyGel™
AnyGel™
เครื่องสำอาง
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง