Review of Melasma Formula

Thank you for providing the formula for review. I understand you are looking for a solution for your mother's melasma, which you believe is related to hormonal or vascular factors ("ฝ้าเลือด") and has not responded to previous medical treatment.

Based on the ingredients and concentrations provided:

• Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) (10%): This ingredient is known for its effects on pigmentation, reducing dark spots, and controlling oiliness. 10% is within the recommended usage range for these purposes.
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) (5%): Tranexamic Acid helps reduce melanin production and is often used for sun-induced melasma. However, a concentration of 5% exceeds the limit allowed for cosmetic products (typically up to 3%) and would require registration as a medicine. While Tranexamic Acid can sometimes help with vascular components of melasma, its primary action is on pigmentation.
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, Ultra-Fine) (15%): L-ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant and helps with brightening and collagen production. However, it is highly unstable in water-based formulas like the one proposed (which is over 60% water) and requires a very low pH (around 3.5) for efficacy and stability. Achieving this low pH while maintaining the stability and compatibility of other ingredients like Azelaic Acid and Tranexamic Acid is very challenging. Without proper stabilization, the Vitamin C is likely to oxidize quickly and lose its effectiveness.
• Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) (5%): Panthenol is excellent for hydration, soothing, and skin barrier support. 5% is at the higher end of the recommended range and might make the product feel sticky or gooey.
• Disodium EDTA (0.2%): This is a chelating agent used for stability, and 0.2% is within the standard usage range.
• emulPearl™ (1%): This ingredient is a pearlizing agent primarily used in cleansing products to give a pearly appearance. It does not have any active benefit for treating melasma and is not suitable for a leave-on treatment serum.

Overall Assessment:

The proposed formula, while containing ingredients known for their effects on pigmentation (Azelaic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Vitamin C), has significant formulation challenges and potential issues:

1. Stability and Compatibility: Combining high concentrations of L-Ascorbic Acid (requiring low pH) with Azelaic Acid and Tranexamic Acid (with different optimal pH ranges) in a water base is difficult to stabilize effectively. The Vitamin C is likely to degrade rapidly.
2. Tranexamic Acid Concentration: The 5% concentration of Tranexamic Acid is above the cosmetic limit.
3. Ingredient Suitability: emulPearl™ is inappropriate for this type of product.
4. Targeting "ฝ้าเลือด": While these ingredients can help with pigmentation, "ฝ้าเลือด" often involves vascular issues that may not respond well to standard pigment-reducing agents alone.

Therefore, this specific formula is not recommended as written due to stability issues, regulatory concerns with Tranexamic Acid concentration, and the inclusion of an inappropriate ingredient.

Treating "ฝ้าเลือด" can be complex, especially if it has a strong vascular component. Since consulting a doctor did not provide a solution, it might be beneficial to seek a consultation with a dermatologist specializing in melasma or vascular skin conditions for alternative treatment options that specifically target the underlying causes.

If you wish to create a formulation for pigmentation, it would be advisable to formulate ingredients separately or use stabilized derivatives of Vitamin C that are easier to work with in water-based systems.