Review of Acne & Exfoliating Toner Formula

Asked by: misix24 On: August 30, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need feedback on this toner formula designed for acne-prone skin, targeting clogged pores and inflammatory acne, as well as exfoliation, reducing dark spots, and acne scars. Are there any potential issues with this formula?

Formula:
Acacia Salicylic Acid (Timed Release Water-Soluble Powder) 4.00 %
FruitPeel™ (Fruit Exfoliation) 2.00 %
Lactic Acid (AHA) Neutralized 2.00 %
Linked Papain 2.00 %
Yeast Resurface 2.00 %
Pure-Succinic™ (Succinic Acid, High-Purity) 1.00 %
Zinc PCA 1.00 %
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3.00 %
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) 0.50 %
Odor-Kill™ (Water Soluble) 1.00 %
TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24) 1.00 %
WaterLube™ Slip 1.00 %
Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin 79.50 %

Answer

Subject: Feedback on Acne & Exfoliating Toner Formula

Thank you for sharing your toner formula targeting acne, exfoliation, and dark spots.

Your formula includes several excellent active ingredients known for these benefits, such as:

  • Salicylic Acid (Acacia Salicylic Acid) for acne and exfoliation
  • AHAs (FruitPeel, Lactic Acid) and enzymes (Linked Papain, Yeast Resurface) for exfoliation
  • Succinic Acid and Zinc PCA for acne and soothing
  • Witch Hazel and Allantoin for soothing

However, the main concern with this formulation is the high concentration and combination of multiple strong exfoliating agents. Combining 4% Salicylic Acid with 2% FruitPeel, 2% Lactic Acid (even if neutralized), 2% Linked Papain, and 2% Yeast Resurface in a single toner is likely too aggressive for most skin types, especially for daily use.

This high level of exfoliation can lead to:

  • Significant skin irritation, redness, and burning sensation
  • Excessive dryness and peeling
  • Damage to the skin's natural barrier function
  • Potential worsening of inflammation, particularly for active acne

While the ingredients individually target your concerns, their combined effect in this concentration could be counterproductive and harmful to the skin barrier.

Recommendations:

  • Reduce the number or concentration of exfoliating ingredients. Consider choosing just one or two primary exfoliants at lower concentrations.
  • Carefully consider the pH of the final formulation, as it impacts the efficacy and irritation potential of acids.
  • Use the product less frequently, perhaps 2-3 times per week, if you choose to proceed with a similar combination (though reducing actives is strongly recommended).
  • Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying to the entire face.

In summary, while the ingredient selection aligns with your goals, the formula is likely too potent due to the cumulative effect of multiple strong exfoliants. It is highly recommended to revise the formula to reduce the risk of irritation and skin barrier damage.