Review of Your Acne Serum Formulation

Thank you for sharing your serum formulation for acne treatment. It includes several beneficial ingredients targeting different aspects of acne.

Regarding your question about Allantoin (0.5%) and Panthenol (3%): While both ingredients offer soothing and wound-healing properties, they also have distinct benefits that can be complementary in a formulation like this.

• Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) is an excellent humectant and moisturizer that helps improve the skin barrier function, reduce moisture loss, and enhance skin elasticity. It also has anti-inflammatory effects and promotes wound healing and tissue regeneration, which is beneficial for acne-prone skin.
• Allantoin is known for its strong anti-irritant and anti-allergenic properties. It effectively soothes the skin and supports the formation of healthy new tissue, aiding in the healing process. It is also considered very safe and gentle.

Including both at these concentrations is reasonable. Allantoin can provide additional soothing and anti-allergy benefits that complement Panthenol's broader moisturizing and barrier support functions, contributing to overall skin comfort and healing in acne-prone skin.

Other Ingredients in Your Formula:

• White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) 4%: This ingredient contains Lysozyme, which is effective against P. acnes bacteria, a key contributor to acne. Your usage rate of 4% is within the recommended range (1-5%). Remember that this enzyme is heat-sensitive and cationic, so it should be added to the formula after cooling and is not compatible with anionic ingredients.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) 5%: This is a well-regarded ingredient for acne due to its ability to reduce oiliness, strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and help with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Your concentration of 5% is a common and effective usage rate.
• Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract) 3%: This extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. It also helps reduce sebum production, which is helpful for oily and acne-prone skin. Your usage rate of 3% is within the recommended range (1-5%). Like the White Egg Enzyme, it is sensitive to heat and light and should be added in the final step below 40°C, ideally with a chelating agent like ActiveProtec™ OX.
• Ethoxydiglycol 5%: This acts as a solvent and penetration enhancer, helping other ingredients absorb better into the skin. However, please note that the current recommended usage limit for Ethoxydiglycol in leave-on products is typically lower (e.g., 2.6% in the EU). Using 5% might exceed regulatory guidelines depending on your region and product type.
• Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 2%: This is a non-ionic thickener suitable for creating a gel texture, especially in formulations containing electrolytes. Your usage rate of 2% is within the typical range (0.5-3%). When using this thickener with heat-sensitive ingredients like White Egg Enzyme and Hi-EGCG™, ensure the gel base has cooled sufficiently before adding them.
• Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) 2%: This is a non-ionic surfactant commonly used as a solubilizer or emulsifier. In your formula, it likely helps to incorporate the Fractionated Coconut Oil into the water-based gel.
• Fractionated Coconut Oil 3%: This is a lightweight emollient that can provide a smooth skin feel without being greasy or clogging pores. It's an oil-phase ingredient that needs an emulsifier like Polysorbate 20 to be stable in a water-based gel. Your usage rate of 3% is appropriate.

Overall, this formulation includes several ingredients known to be beneficial for acne-prone skin. Pay close attention to the mixing instructions for heat-sensitive ingredients and verify the regulatory limit for Ethoxydiglycol usage in your specific product type and region.